cdevidal wrote:
Ok thanks everyone, I had a slight question in my mind wondering if length and its effect on the vehicle had more to do with the massive wall of box itself or the actual length.
As for towing calculations, I'm talking about the 110" wheelbase rule-of-thumb. I understand it is a verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry loose rule though.
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/CFB/1/TID/307610.cfm
I would use the ball to bumper length as the length.
As far as length rules and wheelbase, I have read that the rear overhang of the truck should not exceed 1/2 the TV wheel base. Rear over hang being distance from tow ball in the shank to the center of the rear axle.
That rule of thumb has some more merit to it then the older Consumers group length.
I use to tow with a 2500 Suburban. 130" WB with a 65" rear over hang. The rear overhang is 1/2 the wheel base.
In that situation, the stiffer truck suspension made a more stable towing platform then the 1500 counterpart Suburban.
And that said, on my 2500 Burb, changing tire brands of LT Load Range E tires had more to do with towing stability then the length of the trailer. I towed my prior 27 footer with great success until I bought new tires. Then sorted that out and towed our current 32 foot with it until the F350 came. The towing stability I could tell was more affect by the tires on the truck then then 5 extra feet of trailer length.
When the F350 came, I grew a longer WB and more stable truck suspension once again. There was a global shift in stability then.
From my experience, trailer tongue weight to TT GVW balance, TV tire and suspension stiffness have more effect on stability then trailer length as long as you are under 35 feet TT length. I do not have experience longer then the 35 foot. I would however the keep rear overhang to not exceed 1/2 the WB rule.
Good luck with your new rig.
John
