Mountain Towing

The '06 Silverado has a 4 spd transmission and doesn't have the tow-haul programming of the newer transmissions. So you have to pay a little more attention -- we had an '05 Suburban, for what its worth. Often, or maybe usually, I would just leave it in "3" for most of the trip, since the engine didn't have power to tow in 4th gear anyway.

Since your trailer is lighter and more aerodynamic than my 6500# box, you might be able to hold 4th gear, especially if you have 4.10 gears. But if it is 'hunting' a lot (ie, shifting between 3 and 4 often), you may be better off just leaving it in 3rd.

Other than that, make sure to use the gears coming down the hills. Downshift as necessary to control your speed. We often shifted down to 2nd, and even 1st on tight windy roads. The last thing you want to do is to be on the brakes too much!

I always try to look ahead and use the yellow recommended corner speed signs. They may be a little slow when not towing, but find them to be usually spot on when I'm towing.

kmbelt wrote:
Does a 1971 AirStream actually have electic brakes where a controller would be used.

They sure do. My friend has a 70 model with electric brakes. I crawled up under my trailer and verified that it does. Even the owners manual shows the wiring for it.

And here is the best feature of all....remember now...1971....on the driver side there are two little lights pointing forward. These are lenses for two fiber optic (yes I said fiber optic) cables that run to the brake lights. When you hit the brakes and they light up you can see this in rearview mirror by looking at these two lenses.

Jim-Linda wrote:
Are you saying you are now towing without a brake controller and are wondering what to get?

Jim

Correct, I really haven't done much towing yet. Boat trailer has hydraulic brake system so didn't need for that.

Does a 1971 AirStream actually have electic brakes where a controller would be used.

Jim-Linda wrote:
Are you saying you are now towing without a brake controller and are wondering what to get?

Jim

What is the point of "going there?" Just give the guy the benefit of the doubt and recommend a brake controller.

I recommend the Prodigy P2 or P3. Either is a plug and play affair with your truck and the correct adapter cable.

Also put a 40A fuse in the "Stud #1" position of the fuse panel under the hood of your truck. That will charge the trailer batteries while you are on the road. There is a dummy fuse in that position now, most likely. It is a special "block" style fuse.

Are you saying you are now towing without a brake controller and are wondering what to get?

Jim

intheburbs wrote:
I used tow/haul, and manually shifted gears. Be patient, both going up and down hills. Let the engine do the work downhill - not your brakes. Plan ahead and anticipate as you approach steep grades and sharp turns.

Regards to the controller - I've had great results with a Tekonsha Prodigy.

X 2

I've towed a 6500-lb travel trailer through the Rockies with a 5.3 half ton Suburban, as high as 9,666 feet (Powder River Pass in WY).

Your axle ratio is going to make a big difference. Mine had the 4.10 axles. 3.73 should be acceptable, 3.42 will likely be problematic, even for a relatively light trailer.

I used tow/haul, and manually shifted gears. Be patient, both going up and down hills. Let the engine do the work downhill - not your brakes. Plan ahead and anticipate as you approach steep grades and sharp turns.

Regards to the controller - I've had great results with a Tekonsha Prodigy.

What works for me:

Figure out where the power band is for your engine (RPMs). Put the RPMs there at the bottom of the hill, and keep them more-or-less there - this will mean slowing down some as you climb and the TV downshifts, but you'll be surprised how minimal that can be if you stay in the power band.

At the top, don't immediately speed up, let gravity do it for you on the way down. Chances are you'll climb it in 3rd. Leave it in 3rd going back down so that engine friction does some of the work of slowing you down (to avoid using the brakes). If you do have to brake, use a heavy foot and slow down 10 mph below the speed limit, then let gravity work your speed back up again. That will give the brakes time to cool before you have to use them again.

If your TV does not have "tow package" from the factory you might want to consider adding a transmission cooler (if it's an auto). Make sure all equipment is maintained. Otherwise as others have said slow down. Going down steep grades down shift. Pump the breaks. Enjoy.