While I do own a 5th wheel, this question concerns hitches that I use to pull my boats. I have a need for two different hitches, one that is much higher than the other because one of my boats requires a high hitch to allow any rain encountered on the trip to the launch to flow out of the drain hole and one that is about as high as the receiver itself for the other boat. For sometime, I have wanted to get a hitch that could be adjusted high and low rather than continuing to switch out the tow bar/ball each time.I know that B&W makes such a hitch, but it appears these hitches would rust when left out in the weather, just as my other two hitches have done. I have seen on other trucks a hitch that appears to be made out of stainless steel or some other material that is gray in color (galvanized possibly?), but I haven't been able to find such a hitch online and have never been able to get close enough to these hitches to get the manufacturer's name. The one I'm thinking of has notches all along the back vertical and it appears that all one has to do is pull a pin, slide the hitch up (or down) and then reinsert the pin. From what I can tell, both the ball and hitch itself are made of materials that don't rust.I know my description is kind of fuzzy, but hopefully I have given enough info for someone to recognize what I'm talking about. Any help would be appreciated.

Here is a whole bunch, made with different materials.http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Ball_Mounts-sf-Adjustable_Ball_Mount.aspx

I'm looking at the Anderson Rapid Hitch myself. I like the B&W as well but the Aluminum construction on the Rapid hitch appeals to me. Here is a LinkThanks!Jeremiah

It seems to me that removing the hitch shank is something that I do when I am not towing, so that I do not hit the hitch receiver with my knees when not towing. Why not have two hitch receivers and have the ball already mounted on each? So simple to switch between the two. We do that at work all the time, as our van tows a 2 axle trailer with electric brakes most of the time and 2-5/16" ball, while the smaller single axle trailer has a 2" ball mount. Two heights too. Fred.

I drive through RV alley (Shipshewana, Middlebury, Howe) daily and the RV haulers will often be using the aluminum Anderson Rapid hitch for what that's worth.

I also use the Anderson rapid hitch.

multi-purpose hitches | Good Sam Community

mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 11, 2014
Not destroy itself, but seize into the receiver due to corrosion.

The aluminum clamps that held my old soft tonneau frame to the truck had to be cut off because of the corrosion between the steel bolts and aluminum clamps. Those bolts were seized in there solid, and they were up out of the weather and salt.

Granted there's no salt in Louisiana unless you live near the coast, and the process will take quite a bit longer than here in the Northeast, but I learned long ago after having one shank seize in the receiver, which required torching to remove, and having a couple of close calls, to remove the shank as soon as you've unhitched the trailer. Even if it rattles around now, it won't prevent the problem.
jerem0621
Explorer II
Oct 10, 2014
mkirsch wrote:
Contrary to what you think, aluminum does in fact corrode. Worst is when it's in contact with iron and you introduce a little moisture to the party.

Humid Louisiana, a little vibration to burnish the paint off the receiver and the shank, and a few weeks of not towing is all it takes.

have you seen an aluminum draw bar destroy itself from being in a steel receiver tube? I've known people who have had these for years and I have never seen one fail myself. I don't think I have ever heard of one failing either.

Just curious because here in Tennesee we have an extremely humid environment as well and I haven't noticed a problem.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
Cajun_Bill
Explorer
Oct 10, 2014
unsubscribing
mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 10, 2014
Contrary to what you think, aluminum does in fact corrode. Worst is when it's in contact with iron and you introduce a little moisture to the party.

Humid Louisiana, a little vibration to burnish the paint off the receiver and the shank, and a few weeks of not towing is all it takes.
Cajun_Bill
Explorer
Oct 09, 2014
mkirsch wrote:
A stainless or aluminum shank is not going to eliminate the rust on your hands, because your receiver is made of plain carbon steel, and is rusting. The rust will transfer to the shank, and on to your hands. Wear gloves, or wash up afterward.

Leaving your hitch shank in 100% of the time, regardless of what it's made of, is not a good idea even if it's adjustable and will fit in your garage. Even if the shank is stainless, that receiver is still rusting, and if you leave the hitch in long enough it will become permanently welded into the receiver.

OP here. That's the whole point of this exercise and the "rust on my hands" comment. If I use the Rapid Hitch, all I have to do is adjust the height, but the hitch bar can stay in the receiver and since the part I have to adjust is aluminum, no rust.. I doubt that it would "permanently weld into the receiver", especially with the play between the shank/tow bar and the receiver allowing for movement anytime I am towing.
ependydad
Explorer
Oct 09, 2014
I own a the Rapid Hitch as well and highly recommend it.
Fordlover
Explorer
Oct 09, 2014
This reminds me of my grandfathers truck when growing up. The three holes on the bumper had a 1 7/8" ball, a 2", and the receiver hitch had the 2 5/16" for heavy towing.

I don't think any of the trucks have multiple holes in the bumper any more do they?
Stalvo
Explorer
Oct 09, 2014
I have an Andersen Rapid Hitch. I have used it for 6 years in 3 different vehicles. The only time it is out if the receiver is when I use the WDH. I have never had an issue with out sticking in the receiver or anything. IF I ever need another hitch, it will moist definitely be an Andersen Rapid Hitch.
APT
Explorer
Oct 08, 2014
I have a Putnam adjustable height ball mount and a convert-a-ball. I can tow pretty much any trailer I need to under my weight carrying limits.

I remove the ball mount when not towing. Greasy ball is a kid magnet.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 08, 2014
A stainless or aluminum shank is not going to eliminate the rust on your hands, because your receiver is made of plain carbon steel, and is rusting. The rust will transfer to the shank, and on to your hands. Wear gloves, or wash up afterward.

Leaving your hitch shank in 100% of the time, regardless of what it's made of, is not a good idea even if it's adjustable and will fit in your garage. Even if the shank is stainless, that receiver is still rusting, and if you leave the hitch in long enough it will become permanently welded into the receiver.