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RTFMOK's avatar
RTFMOK
Explorer
Apr 28, 2018

My lady wants to know: Effort Hooking up WD bars

My lady wants to know how much effort is involved in hooking up WD bars. Since I can move refrigerators and she can not, I'm not qualified to answer this question for her.

This question might also apply to seniors, we are crossing over into qualifying for AARP discounts.

She is able to crank the TT manual tongue jack, and wants to know how this effort compares to connecting WD bars. She does have a weak shoulder.

Also, is there any difference between installing round bars such as on the Blue OX versus a trunnion style such as Equalizer or E2? Is one easier than the other? All my experience is with round bars.

We are looking at setups rated for 750 or 800 pounds tongue weight (depending on manufacturer) for our combo. We expect 700 to 750 pounds tongue weight when loaded up, minimum will be over 600.

I do know they are easier to apply if the tongue jack is raised fully first.
  • Be aware that the effort to disconnect bars is the same as connecting them.

    So.... raising the tongue will make it easier to disconnect.

    And always make sure all parts of your body are not in the path of the cheater bar or anything used to connect disconnect. something goes wrong and you don't want to be in the way.

    Also. If when disconnecting if the trailer/TV is not level but in a "V" at the tongue, the force on the bars increases. I doesn't take much of a "V" before the force on the bars can be extremely high if you aren't using the jack and you can be suprised/overcome by the force on the cheater bar.

    When I put my trailer in the driveway I always disconnect the bars before backing in since there is a noticeable "V " at the tongue and I can tell you the force to disconnect w/o using the tongue jack is way higher than when level.
  • OP, install an electric tongue jack and it's a breeze, unless she can't bend down.

    Installing the hitch head into the receiver will be a bigger problem than the weight bars.
  • K Charles wrote:
    If you hook up then lift the TT with an electric tongue jack, you don't need to use any force to hook the bars. The hardest part is lifting them up, and they aren't that heavy.

    Dito on using the tongue jack for both hooking up and removing. Haven't had to use my helper bar to lift or remove my torsion bars.
  • I'm a 64 year old single woman (65 next month) and have an Equalizer hitch for my 26' FR trailer. I can do it myself. I find the most difficult part is getting the cotter pin in! She shouldn't worry; just do it a few times and it won't seem so scary.
  • 1. Couple the trailer to the truck and latch the coupler.

    2. Insert the WD bars into the hitch head but do not try to chain them up yet to the snap-up brackets.

    3. Raise the tongue of the trailer with the jack until the rear of the truck is raised several inches above normal.

    4. Try to chain up the WD bars to the snap-ups. If the effort is too high, raise the tongue some more with the jack. Keep this up until you can tighten the chains with the snap-ups easily.

    5. When the chains are tightened, lower the tongue(raise the jack foot) all the way up and hook up the emergency cord, chains, and light cord.

    6. You should be ready to go. Very little effort required except turning the jack handle. This is why many use an electric tongue jack on our trailers. I would also try raising the back of the truck a short bit again to make sure the coupler is securely fastened.
    Barney
  • I had a Reese old style, bars with the chains and you adjusted the tension by the number of chain links. I now have an Equal-i-zer 4 point. And the Equal-i-zer is much, much easier and faster to hitch up. Plus, the old style Reese, I needed a separate friction sway bar, which was an extra step. Plus backing, the sway bar always had to be removed.

    The secret to easily hooking up any WD bars is the raise the tow vehicle and trailer up together (hitched) so the bars easily set in place. Once in place, then lower the tongue jack and the tension will increase. You don't need to use the cheater bars or anything this way.

    The Equal-i-zer has 2 bars that insert into the hitch head. There's a pin on each bar that is inserted to hold them in place, then a cotter pin is inserted in the pin. The other end of the bar simply rests on the L-bracket on the tongue. An L-shaped pin is inserted into the L-bracket and the flip snap holds the L-pin in place. Lower the tongue jack and done.

    I'm 63 years old and have no problems doing this. My wife insisted with this current camper we have an electric jack. So, as part of our purchase deal, we had the electric jack added and that was one of the best things we could have done. It's no problem.

    My wife (55 years old) can also hitch up all by herself with no problem. I taught her and have her help just so she can do it in the event I become incapacitated and she has no other alternative but to do it herself. She needs to be able to do everything! If for some reason I drop dead and we're camping a thousand miles from home, I want to go to my grave knowing she has all the skills to get the camper back home without needed anyone's assistance. She needs to be independent and feel confident in her abilities too. The Equal-i-zer helps makes that happen.

    The Equal-i-zer 4 point has built in sway control, so there's no need for an extra friction sway bar, and you can back-up the trailer without having to remove anything.
  • The bars are easy as Charles said. I just installed the electric jack Thursday.
  • If you hook up then lift the TT with an electric tongue jack, you don't need to use any force to hook the bars. The hardest part is lifting them up, and they aren't that heavy.

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