My new TT, where are the trouble spots?

1911/F-350 wrote:
I had a used TT for a year and had no issues. I bought a new TT and discovered during the first rain that a window wasn't completely sealed. It just so happened that right under the gutter of my slide out there was a hole/separation in the caulk/window so all that water was being directed into my home.

So once it stopped raining I got the silicon out and made the repar. I also checked all the other Windows and found areas that needed touching up, as in a lot of touching up.

With that said, is there other things/places I need to check or keep an eye on? I read the thread about upgrading the electrical outlets when using things like heaters and like that idea.

Thank you.

IMHO the two things that have the highest payoff in trailer protection against it's #1 enemy ... WATER are in the two links in my signature. As a third item I would completely redo all the exterior caulking where Eternabond is not feasible with a high quality adhesive/sealant like the 3M Marine 4000UV.

Some will question using the Eternabond on a new trailer as it relates to warranty, but IMO if you do the Eternabond properly warranty will never be needed. Two areas that needs particular attention are the four roof corners where the front/rear cap molding forms a right angle with the trim molding that runs up the front/sides and onto the roof. That area forms a "dam" where water will pool and eventually normal caulking will fail and you'll get a leak at that corner. The other are all the lights and any exposed screws including all those under the vinyl insert molding and my Eternabond link has IMO a couple of good methods/alternatives to effective seal those against any potential water intrusion.

Lastely I'm a firm believer in the RainKap system for two reasons, it effectively eliminates any black streak issues and it helps to prevent leaks from any fittings under it since the water will not normally run down the sides of the trailer.

Larry

LarryJM wrote:


IMHO the two things that have the highest payoff in trailer protection against it's #1 enemy ... WATER are in the two links in my signature. As a third item I would completely redo all the exterior caulking where Eternabond is not feasible with a high quality adhesive/sealant like the 3M Marine 4000UV.

Some will question using the Eternabond on a new trailer as it relates to warranty, but IMO if you do the Eternabond properly warranty will never be needed. Two areas that needs particular attention are the four roof corners where the front/rear cap molding forms a right angle with the trim molding that runs up the front/sides and onto the roof. That area forms a "dam" where water will pool and eventually normal caulking will fail and you'll get a leak at that corner. The other are all the lights and any exposed screws including all those under the vinyl insert molding and my Eternabond link has IMO a couple of good methods/alternatives to effective seal those against any potential water intrusion.

Lastely I'm a firm believer in the RainKap system for two reasons, it effectively eliminates any black streak issues and it helps to prevent leaks from any fittings under it since the water will not normally run down the sides of the trailer.

Larry

Thank you very much Larry, I will take notes and put them in a file. I really appreciate the information.

1911/F-350 wrote:

westend wrote:
In the Spring, I'd suggest to use some caulk remover like "3m Caulk Remover" and get the silicone off your trailer. The caulk removal is easy and, when done and cleaned, apply some Proflex RV, any of the Geocel tripolymer sealants, or Dicor for vertical surfaces.

Water leaks in RV's is like cancer.

When you say remove the silicone do you mean just what I used or all that is on the RV?

I ask because when I bought it the service department did the walk around and mentioned the roof, I told them I was aware of the correct sealant but wasn't sure of the windows. He said to use silicone.

Thank you.

Well, "he" was wrong. Any silicone on your trailer will eventually degrade from weather and UV exposure. At some point, it will break the bond on the surface to which it's applied and can then expose a joint to leaking.

You don't have to believe me, either. Prove it for yourself. Take that same caulk you used and apply silicone on a bare or painted metal surface. Place the test piece in your backyard exposed to the elements and observe. Within a couple of years it will start to loose adhesion.

I've used and use a variety of different caulks and sealants in my work life. The Geocel tripolymer sealants are very good. Proflex RV is one of these. Dicor for vertical surfaces is a urethane based sealant and should be very durable, also.

westend wrote:

1911/F-350 wrote:

westend wrote:
In the Spring, I'd suggest to use some caulk remover like "3m Caulk Remover" and get the silicone off your trailer. The caulk removal is easy and, when done and cleaned, apply some Proflex RV, any of the Geocel tripolymer sealants, or Dicor for vertical surfaces.

Water leaks in RV's is like cancer.

When you say remove the silicone do you mean just what I used or all that is on the RV?

I ask because when I bought it the service department did the walk around and mentioned the roof, I told them I was aware of the correct sealant but wasn't sure of the windows. He said to use silicone.

Thank you.

Well, "he" was wrong. Any silicone on your trailer will eventually degrade from weather and UV exposure. At some point, it will break the bond on the surface to which it's applied and can then expose a joint to leaking.

You don't have to believe me, either. Prove it for yourself. Take that same caulk you used and apply silicone on a bare or painted metal surface. Place the test piece in your backyard exposed to the elements and observe. Within a couple of years it will start to loose adhesion.

I've used and use a variety of different caulks and sealants in my work life. The Geocel tripolymer sealants are very good. Proflex RV is one of these. Dicor for vertical surfaces is a urethane based sealant and should be very durable, also.

Thank you for the reply westend, I also added the Proflex to my notes.

After the dealership told me that this was a 26' camper I kind'of figured what they said was to be taken with a grain of salt....

I appreciate everyone's replies and help with this.

I posted before that I can see light around the radius of the door as in more than a half inch. Now that snow is here in PA......I assume I need a temporary fix until the temps get spring warm???

Not so much concerned about the heating but the water attacking.

Any quick sealing fix advice for below freezing temps?

I wish I would have bought this sooner and had time to discover all this before now but life is funny sometimes......