Mysteries of RV design

When we had an RV with the little vent tabs outside, I used the awning rod to operate them. Our current RV has the inside vent latch.

Deb and Ed M wrote:
Here's one that was a total deal-breaker for us: as Michiganders, we are pros at winterizing - I mean, winter is the time to go south, right?? Our previous Class C was easy-peasy to winterize - took maybe 10 minutes tops using a 3-way valve at the pump front which was accessed from an outside bay.

So as we started looking at small Class C or B+s, one of my first questions was "where is the pump - how does it winterize?" Aside from salespeople simply not knowing - many of the models we were considering required one to be a contortionist to even GET near the pump; or pieces of the interior paneling had to be removed. It was ridiculous. I'm assuming that 3/4ths of this country experiences sub-freezing temps at least once in a while - why on earth would they make a critical procedure so difficult??

Simple answer to most of it is... Because it's cost effective for them, IOW cheap to build.

When we bought ours I went over everything before I signed on the bottom line, well paid cash in my case.

noteven wrote:
Have fun posting your mysteries...

I’ll start - my circa 2018 truck camper has a fancy stainless steel microwave/range vent/range light unit. The range vent lid must be opened and closed by moving 2 little plastic tits from the outside, while holding the lid closed. It is about 10 foot off the ground when the camper is on the truck.

My 1989 Fleetwood trailer had a vent hood that was opened and closed by a control from inside.

and those cheap little teats have a bad habit of breaking off. Off the ground 10 feet (most likely about 8 is a non issue with me. I always carry a 3 step folding mini ladder. Got to be careful, they break right off.

On my '04 Itasca, the range hood & light are built in to the underside of the microwave...and they are 120VAC. So unless I have hookups or use the generator, I have no light/fan over my LPG stove! :S

Here's one that was a total deal-breaker for us: as Michiganders, we are pros at winterizing - I mean, winter is the time to go south, right?? Our previous Class C was easy-peasy to winterize - took maybe 10 minutes tops using a 3-way valve at the pump front which was accessed from an outside bay.

So as we started looking at small Class C or B+s, one of my first questions was "where is the pump - how does it winterize?" Aside from salespeople simply not knowing - many of the models we were considering required one to be a contortionist to even GET near the pump; or pieces of the interior paneling had to be removed. It was ridiculous. I'm assuming that 3/4ths of this country experiences sub-freezing temps at least once in a while - why on earth would they make a critical procedure so difficult??

Main light panel and control panel for water pump, outside lights and inside lights is right inside the main entry door, behind a cabinet door. Only problem is, its so high, you have to be a giant to reach it. I ran new wires and installed addition light switches for the main houselights outside that box and much lower. My wife couldn't reach the house lights. We keep a 2 foot step ladder right inside the main door. 5er's have tall ceilings and tall cabinets, but it makes no sense why the light switches have to so high. (2019 Montana High Country 375FL, Fifth Wheel)

Back when common sense wasn't so rare, these fans were used. Too bad they don't make them in 12 volt.

Our former travel trailer had this too. Besides being a pain in the neck to open/close it, any time the wind blew or any trailer movement whatsoever happened, a distinctive "tink tink tink" could be heard. Our current 5th wheel doesn't have an outside vent. Just a vent hood and filter. I don't miss the "tink tink tink" noise but no vent at all isn't the best thing either.

HA! We have the same issue on our C. Have to get step ladder out to reach it the vent tabs to open it up.