need general advice

Just wanted to let everyone know that we needed up with the SMI plug and go system and blue ox tower and plate. Just finished first big towing excursion (about 1200 miles,) and could not have been happier with ease of use. Thanks again to all,

Steve

steveandjil wrote:
Dear All,

Do this brings up an obvious stupid question that only now occurred to me. Does the engine have to be on in the toad for any of these mechanical (ready brake, or brake buddy like device) to work? You certainly can get braking in a power assist brake vehicle w/o engine on, but it is very stiff if no vacuum assist.

Sorry for the dumb questions - a decade pulling a 5er with electric brakes never taught me this stuff...

Steve

not a dumb question. short answer, no. in my case we use the Unified Tow Brake from US Gear. it uses our Jeep's power braking system and is powered from the Jeep's battery.

Dear All,

Do this brings up an obvious stupid question that only now occurred to me. Does the engine have to be on in the toad for any of these mechanical (ready brake, or brake buddy like device) to work? You certainly can get braking in a power assist brake vehicle w/o engine on, but it is very stiff if no vacuum assist.

Sorry for the dumb questions - a decade pulling a 5er with electric brakes never taught me this stuff...

Steve

Hi. Is Ready Brute a surge brake? The only reason I am bringing this up is that my Winnebago Sightseer manual warns against using surge brakes. I don't use surge brakes.

If my Ready Brute system was stolen today, I would have another on the way via UPS tomorrow. IMO, once installed, it is the easiest, use and forget about it system. It is always there ready to go. Works like a champ.

After 4 years of towing with it, I did learn one thing a few months ago. The first time I braked after hooking up the car, it would buck and jerk. But it was only the first time. Never again. Someone posted on here about "bleeding the vacuum" by pumping the brakes. That made sense. Since the brakes are assisted by the vacuum, running the engine while driving to the back of the RV and adjusting its position left vacuum in the vacuum lines. This caused excessive braking the first time. I now pump the brakes a few times after hooking up and it never does that anymore. Of course, that applies to ANY braking system that pulls the brake pedal without providing vacuum assist, not just the Ready Brake.

Dear all,

Thanks so much for the advice - first it is great to hear no steering lock. I just never checked (my bad.) Re the tow bars and base plate, my gut is they all do the trick, and the question is some seem a bit easier than others. Re the supplemental brake, I love the look of these various systems installed in the engine compartment. I was a bit unsure of the kinds that manually push in the brake pedal - I'm sure they work as needed, but this just seems a whole lot cleaner.

How happy are people with the ready brute system - seems a bit crazy that it works, but I suppose it must. Certainly a winner in the "bang for the buck" category if it does the job.

Steve

I don't know if any Jeep, or most other vehicles, have had steering locks since 2002.
They all come with chipped keys, so they can't be started. No need for a steering wheel lock. Just put transfer case in neutral, transmission in Park, take out key, and go.

We tow a 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ series using the Roadmaster All Terrain towbar and XL baseplates. It's a great setup and easy to connect or disconnect even when the Jeep and motorhome are at different heights, or at an angle to one another.

The TJ series (1997 to 2006) and some of the earlier JK series (introduced in 2007) have steering wheel locks. All you have to do to be sure the system is unlocked is to put the key in and turn it forward 1 position. The steering is then unlocked, but the ignition is not on.

A chipped ignition key was an option for the TJ series. If you have the option you need a key with a chip to start the engine. Again if you have that option all you need to do is go to a locksmith (or possibly a hardware store) and have them copy your key onto a non-chipped blank. The key will turn in the ignition, the engine will crank, but it won't start.

If you don't have the chipped key option you can lower the glove compartment and remove the #4 fuse. It's for the ignition system. The engine will crank but not start.

If you have the later version of the JK there is no steering lock, so you can just remove the key.

We use the Roadmaster 9060 towing system. It's a great proportional system, however it takes a fair amount of time and room in the motorhome to install. I like the system, but there are many newer systems on the market that are easier to install an take up less room.

We have a 2015. We have a custom bumper instead of a baseplate with blue Ox adapters. We use an NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bar and surge braking system. For the lights, we installed a Mopar wiring harness (http://www.mopar.com/part/82211156AB).

To tow, we hook up the Jeep, put the transfer case in neutral, put the transmission in 5th, and release the emergency brake. No problem with battery drain, no problem with steering lock (there isn't one).

We recently purchased a 2003 TJ Wrangler, it was equipped with the Stowmaster towbar, but no braking system. Just had the SMI system (StayInPlay) installed and am quite pleased with it. There's nothing on the floorboard of the Jeep that you have to move away when driving it. The system fits in the engine compartment out of the way with a small piston operating the brake pedal placed up under the dash where it's out of the way; they're pricey but I feel they're worth the cost.