Here's my $0.02...and IMHO, which has no skin in your game...nor does anyone else providing advice on a freebie forum
Think you have the rare, unicorn half ton Ford and why there is so much confusing advice based on the other 14 or so Ford F150's. Telling will be the RGAWR and the tires, which will be LT class (note that the lower rated F150s will have passenger class tires ("P" rating) that require reducing their weight carry ratings by a min of 9%. The OEM has already done that when they designed 'that' F150. Not clear, as some "P" class tires do have higher PSI's these days...in the old days, easy as they rarely were rated higher than 35-40 PSI.
All of these things are dials and knobs to adjust to the final setup goal, which is to have enough trailer tongue to make the trailer handle better...that the trailer is level after setting up, or pointed slightly down...and that the TV is in the orientation of your glove box manual says it should be at after completing the setup
Gather inform from all the labels on your TV and trailer. NOT brochure info, but OEM labels the OEM put on your TV when it left the factory. Plus any modifications/accessory's/etc you have done/added.
TV GVWR, FGAWR, RGAWR, actual weights (go and weigh it fully loaded ready to tow) axle by axle.
Trailer's brochure UNLADEN weights (this will tell what the architecture is and that is whether a 10% tongue, 12% or more). If toyhauler, that is another story. As the architecture has the trailer axles farther back so that the "toy's" will balance the trailer
Your WD Hitch bar/trunnion rating. Note that too high a rating for the load will have the whole setup bounce more.
Until you post those numbers, everything is just an educated guess at which dial/knob/etc you should touch and change.
Good luck!
