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Bigimac's avatar
Bigimac
Explorer
Aug 12, 2015

New to boat trailers … need some help

Apologies in advance for all the questions … hope this the correct forum … been reading everything about boat trailers & need some expert advice.

Got a new Pontoon last week - weighs in (CAT Scale) at 5,760 with a near empty 50 gal gas tank; so I'm thinking 6,200 is a good loaded baseline weight.

I am towing throughout the inter mountain west, up & down 6-8% grades; 60% interstate, 40% state 2-lane highways. I tow at 60 mph. My 2015 Chevy 3500HD crew cab 4x4 gasser is pulling truck, camper, & boat just fine at a 16,800 GCVW; albeit at 8.1 mpg ;).

The trailer from the dealer is a tritoon 27' and configured with:
- dual axles rated 7000# (3500# each axle)
- aluminum wheels (can't find a rating stamp)
- ST205 14 "C" load tires (2-ply rated 1,317#)
- surge braking
- 7" drum brakes on one axle ... sigh ...
- single leaf springs on each wheel with the equalizer thingy

Need some advice:
1) axles at 7000# seems sufficient
2) Planning on changing wheels to 2200# rated mag wheels; should I consider larger than 14"?
3) The trailer guys can put 4-ply "C" load rated at 1980 lbs & tell me this is good enough; should I listen to them?
4) I want to use the built-in brake controller & ABS safety features of the truck ... & really don't like surge anyway, so, it's electric versus EOH; trailer guys say electric is just fine; champion trailer & west marine web sites seem to lean to EOH; suggestions?
5) The tow truck has 14" brakes and adding 7" brakes to the second trailer axle "seems" to be enough; do I need to consider moving to 10" brakes?
6) Drum versus disc - a bit of a toss up on web sites, with disc being a bit more popular for the weight & maintenance considerations; suggestions?
7) Last weekend on a "break in" 500 mile trip, the boat really bounced around (no sway though) on the less smooth 2-lane roads. Do I need to add a spring (or two) to each wheel?

Thanks some more for any advice or suggestions - I really do want to get this done safely & as right as possible - cheers!

p.s. I did flip the hitch ball so the trailer now is way more level than in this picture …

  • Really nice looking boat!

    I've been boat longer than I have been camping. I have looked for a campground that also had boats so I could combine both my pasttimes :-)

    As far as surge brakes not working in reverse my first new trailer (3 axle 10K) had a solenoid that had wires that were triggered by the reverse lights on my TV to release the brake pressure so I could back up. IIRC it had brakes on 2 axles don't recall whether they were disc or drums but remember than (1996) one of those weren't recommended for repeated water exposure. My buddies 2006 double axle trailer with surge didn't have the reverse lock out so it was difficult backing his up on slight inclines or soft ground. I would have to go forward then back several times to get it back. My current older (1993) 2 axle trailer with drums on both axles doesn't have the reverse lock out but haven't had the brakes engage in reverse yet in about 8 years.

    My current trailer is about maxed out axle and tongue weight wise and it has a slight bounce on the road going over irregularities but it seems to help the suspension by smoothing out the bumps and dips.
  • ^^^If you aren't getting the brakes to activate when you are backing up, and you do not have that solenoid, and are not using a manual reverse lock out switch on the trailer, you should check to make sure that the brakes on your trailer are functioning. I don't know how you could back up with surge brakes without them activating if you don't have the manual lock out or solenoid.
  • They sell drum brakes that don't need a lock out for backing. That is probably what he has. Look on etrailer and you will see them. Switching from drum to disk on surge usually requires a different actuator.

    Free backing plates

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