New Trailer Advice

Here is HOW2 do the math using the information you provided, but best
if you have actual weights

If only looking for the "sure you can", "you are good for it", etc...you'll
get many soon, but my advice is to do the simple math yourself as
there is only one person responsible for the setup and that is the
driver...which might not be you, the OP...

The generic formula to figure is:

GCWR => TV actual + trailer actual + stuff (hitch, people/cargo/etc

The TV's rear GAWR normally becomes one of the limiting factors in
the ratings system down to pavement

Do you believe in the OEM's rating systems?

If not, then this is academic and note that you have taken the OEMs
off the warranty & liability hook...to assume them yourself

If yes, then learn how that system works and follow the ratings

In red below

doublejz wrote:
So long story short I landed up at the local RV show and left with a 39' travel trailer.

The trailer details are here:
Shipping Weight - 8,795 lbs
Carrying Capacity - 2,360 lbs
Hitch Weight - 995 lbs

So the shipping weight plus max carrying plus fluids puts it at 11,400 lbs.

So this is your GVWR for the trailer, right?

My 2015 Silverado 2500HD is

GCWR - 20,500

for once someone asking has this info

Trailer weight 13,000 lbs

assume you mean the TV's MTWR, which
is meaningless with out the TV's actual weight subtracted from the GCWR

Tongue Weight - 1,500 lbs

is this based on the 'dry' trailer
or the actual weight of the trailer fully loaded?

I already have Hellwig helper springs and the Reese strait line (their dual cam model) weight distribution hitch (RP66130) is on the way.

What are the bar's ratings your ordered?

If for the 1.5K you list, the tongue WILL be more when loaded if tongued
and if fiver, the PIN will be more

Should I be good to go?

I only plan on towing like once a month during the summer months (and its ~72 miles highway) until next year where I'll get a permanent camping site.

TIA