Out on our first trip? On gas fridge

What a great site this is for a rookie like me
Thx guys

afidel wrote:
I always light a range burner to pull gas thorough the lines, once the flame is clean blue the fridge will light on the first or second attempt.

Same here. I always do this after propane has been off...helps the fridge and water heater light more quickly.

Flame proving is called flame rectification. The board sends an AC signal to the flame sensor, the flame rectifies it, converting it to a DC signal. The board is looking for a DC signal to prove flame. Thermocouple works by 2 dissimilar metals creating a millivolt DC voltage (typically 15 to 32 MV DC) which holds a small magnet out of the path of the pilot gas supply. Thermocouple technology has been around over 100 years and doesn't require outside voltage to run. Flame rectification requires AC power of some kind to operate.

afidel wrote:
I always light a range burner to pull gas thorough the lines, once the flame is clean blue the fridge will light on the first or second attempt.

Same here, in addition, we light it a week before leaving to test and to pack.

luberhill wrote:
But again, after it did this it came on and worked fine

Yup, you're good. Takes a bit to get low pressure gas through the lines, appliance valves and purge all the air.
Like when you light a pilot light on any other gas appliance.

Your fridge does NOT have a thermocouple
It uses a spark electrode which provides a high voltage spark to ignite the main propane flame AND is used for the 'flame proving' signal

Propane valved out ....regulator has to have a demand placed on it and establish flow...system is 11" WC which is only 0.4 psi (you can whistle stronger then that)
The propane system then has to have flow/pressure throughout all lines to the different appliances----the water heater, the furnace and the fridge use a 'flame proving' signal.
W/O it the circuit board shuts down the DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate

Lighting off stove top burners on high help place demand on LP regulator and help establish flow.
The other appliances will need a few attempts to establish flow up to/thru gas valves.
Afterwards propane is AT the gas valves ready to be ignited
Until system is valved out...then repeat process for demand/flow.

Yup. Once you get the air purged, it will be fine. And indeed absorption ‘fridges cool slowly compared to compressor ‘fridges. An hour to cool for every minute open is about right. Get in, get your stuff, and get out.

But again, after it did this it came on and worked fine

afidel wrote:
I always light a range burner to pull gas thorough the lines, once the flame is clean blue the fridge will light on the first or second attempt.

Me too, saves a lot of time.

this rv has an rv fridge, it has been on LP for the past year, never electric
, only turned off while filling the LP tank

i tested electric when i got it, then run it on LP
i keep electric as a backup option,
electric doesn't get dust in the burner, doesn't get air in the line
electric makes a nice 'backup option'

LP mode uses very little propane to operate the fridge