Pex problem

I used plastic version of the brass "Sharkbite" PEX fittings for an upgrade to my TC as noted in this thread. They are a lot easier to work with compared the "Flair-It" fittings. The hardest part of manipulating the Flair fittings was not as much getting the connectors apart, but rather reinstalling them... while reaching in and under the cabinets!

There is one significant image in that thread that, due to how long ago I posted the original thread, that Tiny Pic no longer hosts it... the explanation of what I did is imaged below. It basically added additional valves to isolate the city water attachment to the camper and and the outdoor shower that had no way of being winter-isolated for winter use while using internal plumbing in winter conditions. The shark-bit in the image is on either side of the newly installed valve towards the lower right if the picture.

Granted, TC's are much different from other rigs and do not know if your plumbing components are the same. I am not sure what "Tuffpex" is but if your rig has Flair-it fittings then perhaps it is feasible. Not sure if this helps or answers your question but good luck in your endeavors:

I've used the Sharkbite fittings for repairing a section of ol' timey PEX with the new fangled stuff and they are excellent! Not only do they grip tight giving a watertight seal to begin with, but you can release them to be reused after you've discovered you made the pipe section too long and have to reposition them.

I understand you bought a tool and all and want to use it, but the Sharkbite is better then the clamps. IMO.

It sounds like you have polybutylene tubing, which has a larger ID. The make a union for splicing it to standard Pex. It uses the same crimper.

https://www.supply.com/shop?nid=716011&d=16354-13074&wmh_cid=240262822&wmh_aid=15354474622&wmh_kid=38392583808&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz5iWrrqq2QIVnrXACh2qSAJFEAQYASABEgJYzPD_BwE

Have ben helping my Sis in law on a mobile home. Wanted to put valves on the bathroom lines, etc. Hardware store guy says use this convert from the mobile home type line to the standard line then use the normal valves. Worked just fine. Ehoefler gave you the right advice. One end of the union is bigger then the other but everything else works the same way.

I wondered about this the first time I did some mods to PEX piping in our 1st TT.

The red/blue PEX that is common in RVs does have a slightly different diameter. I see this stuff in Lowes and HD all the time now so must get used in homes & RVs using standard crimp rings. The "regular" PEX that has a white exterior and the red/blue type still both have the required min. pressure ratings.

I've done tons of crimps with the copper PEX crimp rings in several TTs now using a PEX crimper like in the photos below for example which is an electric solenoid valve I installed. Never a single leak. PEX crimps are extremely reliable. A properly adjusted crimper applies the required force on both types of PEX to correctly seal it against a fitting. If you want do a demo to see how tight a crimp connection is, do a crimp on both types of PEX and see how hard it is to rotate the fitting. Both should be able to be rotated using moderate force. If it seems too loose, you might want to check the crimper using a go/no-go gauge. I always use brass PEX fittings although there should be nothing wrong with the plastic ones used in RVs.

No need to use Sharkbite type fittings on RV PEX and it can get very expensive if many connections to do. The only time you may need one is in a cramped location where you can't get the crimper to reach. They do make a "pocket" crimper that will work in those situations. You can also use cinch clamps like the factories us as seen in the 2nd photo below and the tool is available at retail stores.

The "Pex" I have in my RV is not colored other than the writing on it. It says "TuffPex" on it. The hot has red writing and the cold has black. The regular pex fittings from home depot are loose. I'm going to a real plumbing store and see it they have an adapter to go from this stuff to regular 1/2" pex.

TNGW1500SE wrote:
The "Pex" I have in my RV is not colored other than the writing on it. It says "TuffPex" on it. The hot has red writing and the cold has black. The regular pex fittings from home depot are loose. I'm going to a real plumbing store and see it they have an adapter to go from this stuff to regular 1/2" pex.

Correction: I got my nerve up and crimped it using a regular PEX ring and my crimping tool. It seems to be OK. I can't even spin it in the tubing. I'll check it for leaks when I "un-winterize" the RV this spring. I'm not going to hook the faucet up until I flush the pipes out. Thanks for the advice!

myredracer wrote:
I wondered about this the first time I did some mods to PEX piping in our 1st TT.

The red/blue PEX that is common in RVs does have a slightly different diameter. I see this stuff in Lowes and HD all the time now so must get used in homes & RVs using standard crimp rings. The "regular" PEX that has a white exterior and the red/blue type still both have the required min. pressure ratings.

I've done tons of crimps with the copper PEX crimp rings in several TTs now using a PEX crimper like in the photos below for example which is an electric solenoid valve I installed. Never a single leak. PEX crimps are extremely reliable. A properly adjusted crimper applies the required force on both types of PEX to correctly seal it against a fitting. If you want do a demo to see how tight a crimp connection is, do a crimp on both types of PEX and see how hard it is to rotate the fitting. Both should be able to be rotated using moderate force. If it seems too loose, you might want to check the crimper using a go/no-go gauge. I always use brass PEX fittings although there should be nothing wrong with the plastic ones used in RVs.

No need to use Sharkbite type fittings on RV PEX and it can get very expensive if many connections to do. The only time you may need one is in a cramped location where you can't get the crimper to reach. They do make a "pocket" crimper that will work in those situations. You can also use cinch clamps like the factories us as seen in the 2nd photo below and the tool is available at retail stores.

Very interesting post. You've got me curious as to the use of the assembly with the solenoid valve.....:)

blofgren wrote:

Very interesting post. You've got me curious as to the use of the assembly with the solenoid valve.....:)

A couple of seasons ago at a CG in Bend OR, the toilet bowl started to fill up on it's own. Luckily we happened to be inside at the time as it was in the evening. Turned out the CG water pressure had gotten really low, below 10 psi. The weather had unexpectedly gotten cold and the entire CG was about to freeze up that night. I've read of one or two instances of low pressure causing a toilet valve to leak. I installed a new valve but made no difference.

I had already installed a valve to shut the water supply off but was under the kitchen counter at the back and was inconvenient to use all the time. The solenoid valve is 120 volts because we only use FHU CGs but could have been done with a 12 volt one. I installed a switch next to the entry door so with the flick of a switch, the water is off. Works great for when we go out for a drive somewhere or a walk and don't want to worry about a leak somewhere or not completely shutting off a faucet/valve.

The thought of any kind of water leak keeps me awake just about every night since we've owned the TT... :( The other reason I did this is simply because I can! :) Did this while in a CG but had all the parts and tools with me.

myredracer wrote:

blofgren wrote:

Very interesting post. You've got me curious as to the use of the assembly with the solenoid valve.....:)

A couple of seasons ago at a CG in Bend OR, the toilet bowl started to fill up on it's own. Luckily we happened to be inside at the time as it was in the evening. Turned out the CG water pressure had gotten really low, below 10 psi. The weather had unexpectedly gotten cold and the entire CG was about to freeze up that night. I've read of one or two instances of low pressure causing a toilet valve to leak. I installed a new valve but made no difference.

I had already installed a valve to shut the water supply off but was under the kitchen counter at the back and was inconvenient to use all the time. The solenoid valve is 120 volts because we only use FHU CGs but could have been done with a 12 volt one. I installed a switch next to the entry door so with the flick of a switch, the water is off. Works great for when we go out for a drive somewhere or a walk and don't want to worry about a leak somewhere or not completely shutting off a faucet/valve.

The thought of any kind of water leak keeps me awake just about every night since we've owned the TT... :( The other reason I did this is simply because I can! :) Did this while in a CG but had all the parts and tools with me.

Very cool idea, thanks! I have had this happen also when the toilet valve starting bypassing. Luckily we were not far from a dealer to purchase a new valve but would have been a real PITA otherwise.