bshpilot wrote:
their are fail safe "high limit" thermostatic "fuse" that should prevent you from doing any serious damage to the water heater or heater element.
does the water get hot now (that the tank is full) ? on electric and gas ? if not try resetting the fuse
if the water will not heat then try resetting the (electric cut off) ECO / hi-limit fuse (identified by a black cover w/ two round "buttons" on it (accessible from the outside / back of the heater).
if the eco/hi-limit fuse reset doesnt correct the problem, I would pull the (black) cover to visually inspect the fuse to see if it is burnt/open - there is one fuse pre side (gas & electric) - the fuses are easily replaced and cost about 20 bucks each.
If you have the type of water heater that uses a sacrificial anode rod (suburban) - i highly recommend that you drain the water heater if you store the water heater frequently. The anode rod (about 10 bucks) needs to be checked for erosion & replaced at least annually if not more frequently (determined by how often the water heater is left full of water).
if the annde rod is not replace, eventually corrosion will build up on the heating element and could require replacement (10-15 bucks).
Heres a nice trouble shooting guide someone wrote up that will help - http://trekin.digital-digs.net/Share%20PDF/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.1.pdf
A number of errors in this statement.. There is NO fuse under the black cover, there are however, a 120vac t/stat on the left side and a 12vdc t/stat on the right side. Both have a resettable "button" on the top stat. There is nothing to visually check, except maybe a burnt wire. Next, the element will open up almost instantly if no water is in the tank.
