I recently purchased a Prodigy P3 brake controller. After installing it, I have run into an issue about the brakes engaging on the TT.I have set the P3 to 7.5 and the boost to 2 and the type to Electric. When I step on the brake, the TT brakes barely engage.Manually applying the trailer brakes causes the TT brakes to engage, but the do little to stop the truck an trailer. I had the TT brakes adjusted by a pro at the local RV dealer. Under the old Tekonsha Envoy controller, I could apply the TT brakes manually and lock them up.I am looking for solutions to this problem so I can get the P3 adjusted properly. I am going to spray WD40 into the TT plug to get rid of any corrosion that may be present and cause the signal from the P3 to work properly.Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Dial in more power. To just before lockup with the manual handel. Also. I wouldn't use WD40. I use electronic contact cleaner.

With the help of another person have 1 person operate the brake controller manual operator and the other measure the voltage at the bumper plug/connector on pin 4. Be sure to turn the controller to max output. Only way to be sure - you should read 12 VDC.With the Boost set on 2 (30% I believe) and turning on the controller with the manual operator (minimum) you should read 3.6 Volts for 2 seconds - then it will turn off.

I ran my prodigy on 12 and boost 1. What I'm saying is that each trailer and truck combo is different. That's why they are adjustable.

I have set the P3 to 7.5 and the boost to 2 and the type to Electric. When I step on the brake, the TT brakes barely engage. Manually applying the trailer brakes causes the TT brakes to engage, but the do little to stop the truck an trailer. I had the TT brakes adjusted by a pro at the local RV dealer. Under the old Tekonsha Envoy controller, I could apply the TT brakes manually and lock them up. I had (sort of) the same issue with the same controller. I also found that the P3 is not a 'set it and forget it' controller. Mine will lock up the wheels at in town speeds and seem to have little braking at highway speeds if not adjusted for conditons. As a start go higher on the voltage and boost and then back it down to where you are comfortable. After I began to understand the controller I now have the brakes where I want them both in town and on the highway but it does require a re-adjust on the boost. If you don't think the controller is working properly tow a different trailer and see how that works.

jmtandem wrote:I had (sort of) the same issue with the same controller. I also found that the P3 is not a 'set it and forget it' controller. Mine will lock up the wheels at in town speeds and seem to have little braking at highway speeds if not adjusted for conditons. As a start go higher on the voltage and boost and then back it down to where you are comfortable. After I began to understand the controller I now have the brakes where I want them both in town and on the highway but it does require a re-adjust on the boost. If you don't think the controller is working properly tow a different trailer and see how that works.I have same issue as jmtandem, just use boost 1 for city traffic light and boost 3 on highway. My rig is a 1996 C1500 towing a 6,300 TT. I had to adjust the TT brakes annually and change the voltage for the brakes as said above. I used the TT in hilly terrain and as the brakes wore on the effectiveness wore on I ended up selecting a higher voltage setting, may not be the best way when the best way is adjusting the brakes.

Prodigy P3 Issues | Good Sam Community

jmtandem
Explorer II
Oct 18, 2013
I recall all of this being in the instructions for the original Prodigy (aka P2). Did they take it out of the instructions for the P3?

I think the P3 instructions are pretty good except for low speed lock up issues on pavement; and the boost feature could be a little better explained. It has little pictures about trailer size/weight that correspond with the needed boost feature. It is not quite that simple, or in my case it was not quite that simple, to get it dialed just right. After understanding how it works in real world towing, I am perfectly happy with the way it works.
Tachdriver
Explorer
Oct 19, 2013
Terryallan wrote:
Thing to remember about the boost. It only sends 25 to 30% of power to the brakes, and it only lasts a couple seconds. It is only to help the trailer brakes get started with the TV brakes. Boost as I understand it. Has nothing to do with setting the brake power level. In fact. I set my power level, and then turned on the boost.

My brakes work fine, and as mentioned, better at speed. Remember Inertia based brake controllers, need inertia to work properly. Plus they work better after they have warmed up, a lot better.

My only problem, is sometimes I dial in too much. IF I can feel the trailer brakes come on with the pedal, I have too much. The TV, and TT should stop as one, with no jerk from the TT brakes. If I can't feel them, how do I know they are working? I have heard the tires crying when under a hard stop.

For me I don't feel that, when it does come on firm it stays that way until I get off the pedal. But you are right in one way, the more boost and faster I go, when I need to stop quickly it does do that no problem but it does not let off as I slow down. Once it comes on it stays that way, and it is true that once the brakes have warmed up it is more sensitive.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Oct 19, 2013
Tachdriver wrote:
Terryallan wrote:
Thing to remember about the boost. It only sends 25 to 30% of power to the brakes, and it only lasts a couple seconds. It is only to help the trailer brakes get started with the TV brakes. Boost as I understand it. Has nothing to do with setting the brake power level. In fact. I set my power level, and then turned on the boost.

My brakes work fine, and as mentioned, better at speed. Remember Inertia based brake controllers, need inertia to work properly. Plus they work better after they have warmed up, a lot better.

My only problem, is sometimes I dial in too much. IF I can feel the trailer brakes come on with the pedal, I have too much. The TV, and TT should stop as one, with no jerk from the TT brakes. If I can't feel them, how do I know they are working? I have heard the tires crying when under a hard stop.

For me I don't feel that, when it does come on firm it stays that way until I get off the pedal. But you are right in one way, the more boost and faster I go, when I need to stop quickly it does do that no problem but it does not let off as I slow down. Once it comes on it stays that way, and it is true that once the brakes have warmed up it is more sensitive.

It is true the brakes stay on, if the TV is braking. But the Boost is just to help the trailer lead the truck. As I understand it. the boost comes on as soon as you hit the pedal, at 25, or 30 %. Which ever you have set.. Then the accelerometer takes over. If it "feels" the TV slowing down. It applies the needed current to match the TV. IF it does not feel the TV slowing, It releases the brakes. If it only feels a slight braking of the TV, It backs off to match. It does whatever the TV is doing

Unlike cheaper controllers. The Prodigies measure the amount of braking force needed. As you brake, and come to a stop, less braking is needed by the trailer, so the controller backs off power accordingly. So that by the time you are completely stopped, and the accelerometer no longer feels any motion. It releases the brakes. That is why there is no jerk, like with the Voyager.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Oct 19, 2013
2

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