Question about tow vehicle capability

BenK wrote:
Best to figure this out with your own actual weights vs your OEM's ratings

Find your TV's ratings from the OEM. Second hand info has a high degree of mis-info/typo's/etc

then weigh your TV and trailer if you have it...if not, then use the trailer OEMs info....on that, most will list a 'dry' basis. It will weigh more after the options and dealer installed (both required by the OEM and anything you purchase above the standard option mix)

Reason to use the trailer info, even dry info, is to get the percentage tongue weight. It will 'generally' be the same for a loaded trailer. Some do NOT follow that and is dependent on where the water (both potable, grey, black, etc) are.

A good trailer tongue weight percentage is in the 12% to 15% range.

Then load up your TV as if going RV'ing and weigh it, axle by axle. Ditto the trailer if you have it, otherwise as noted above use it's max ratings

Then do the simple math using your TV's ratings vs actual weights.

TV's ratings needed: GVWR, front GAWR, rear GAWR and GCWR. Forget the MTWR (Mas Tow Weight Rating), as that is derived from a stripper TV model, that is most time not offered for sale

There are OEM dialed in margins within their published ratings. So stay within them (forget the MTWR) and you should be okay

The big variables will be the driver (how you drive) and terrain. On flats, most anything 'can' tow it...

The bottom line is the driver's & TV's ability to manhandle the setup during a Mr Murphy encounter.

You've got some good ideas here, thanks! I've got all the OEM numbers (mostly from the door stickers and OM) for my TV. I don't have the trailer yet, but have been copying numbers down on each one we see. Since I don't have the trailer, I hadn't thought about loading up the TV and getting just that weighed. I like that idea. It will let me work with exact real-life numbers for the TV. That's got to be better than using manufacturer numbers for the TV and the trailer.