Forum Discussion
- handye9Explorer II
Lwiddis wrote:
Regarding a weight distribution hitch, more than likely yes. Length is only one part of the equation...your TV is what? Wet hitch weight is? Wet TT total weight is what? What are you carrying in the TV? Sorry but I'm betting you have no idea as to weight.
To add to:
Wet hitch weight is what your camper weighs when it is loaded for a camping trip. A good ball park figure for loaded trailer weight is to add 1000 lbs to the unloaded weight of the trailer. To get a ball park on hitch weight, take loaded weight number, and multiply it by .13. Add 100 lbs (for WD hitch) and this is the weight, associated with the trailer, that your truck will need the capacity to carry.
Your truck has a max tow capacity of 8200 lbs. That is without passengers, cargo or aftermarket accessories. As you add these things, that 8200 lb capacity is going down, pound for pound.
Your truck also has a max rating for carrying weight (payload). That number is on a decal (or sticker) on your drivers door, or door post (max occupant / cargo weight). You need enough payload to carry the weight of any added accessories (bed covers, bed liners, undercoating, etc), people, pets, or cargo that is loaded in or on the truck. The weight of the distributing hitch and loaded trailer hitch weight, are considered cargo weight. It is very common to run out of payload before you get close to that advertised max tow weight.
Your hitch receiver has two numbers stamped on it. The lower number is the max hitch weight without a WD hitch. The higher number is max hitch weight with weight distribution.
When you hang the trailer hitch weight on the back of your truck. It adds weight to your rear axle and takes weight off of your front axle. Too much lost weight on the front axle, creates steering and handling (ie: trailer sway) issues. The primary purpose of a weight distributing hitch is to use leveraging to restore some (in some cases all) of that weight lost from the front axle. - AimcatExplorerThank you for the info. I will get those numbers for you so you can better assist with what exactly I need.
- bikendanExplorer
APT wrote:
Any of the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controllers.
Either of these WDH:
Equal-i-zer 4pt
BlueOx SwayPro
Reese Strait Line
^^^THIS! - CrabbypattyExplorerI used a Prodigy P3 Controller and a Reese Dual Cam Weight Distribution hitch towing a 27ft Wilderness. Now have built in controller and the same hitch for a 30ft Sunnybrook.
- AimcatExplorerWhich WB hitch will I need because I notice they come in different sizes?
- handye9Explorer II
Aimcat wrote:
Which WB hitch will I need because I notice they come in different sizes?
Yes, they come in different weight ratings. You want one that is rated higher than what your loaded tongue / hitch weight will be. Give yourself some room for fluctuating tongue / hitch weight. If your ball park number is 700 lbs, you want a hitch rated for at least 800 lbs.
The reason for going with a higher rating is, tongue / hitch weight is not a constant number. It goes up and down during every trip. Different things get loaded in different places, holding tanks get filled up, groceries and water get used up, etc. Also, depending on location (in relation to trailer axles), your holding tanks can have a significant impact on your tongue / hitch weight.
I have a galley tank located up front. It can add a couple hundred lbs to my tongue weight. My fresh water tank is behind the axles. It takes weight off the tongue. My dry hitch weight was advertised at 880 lbs. During a trip, my tongue weight can be anywhere between 975 and 1200 lbs. I have a BlueOx Swaypro hitch, rated for 1400 lbs. Their 1000 lb hitch would not have been enough, and, the next one up was rated at 1400 lbs. I believe they have one rated at 800 lbs.
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