I probably can't afford a "dream" garage, but we are considering constructing a garage for storing our RV at home and want to consider what to incorporate. Currently, we are fortunate to have a heated warehouse space to store it in; however, that may change so I want to determine if a garage is a viable option.Before I get a couple of bids, I thought I'd ask the forum experts. We currently have a pretty small Class C, and while we have no plans for something larger, I want to consider building something long/high enough to accommodate most RV's for future property value reasons. So, here goes:1. Garage size? Interior length, width and height?--Based on where this would sit, we would have a single-wide garage.2. Door height?--Is 10'Wx12'H enough? or should I go 12x14?3. Slab thickness? --I assume this will be determined by design/code, but thought I'd see if anyone had input.4. Heating method?--We are in the Denver area and are currently spoiled because we don't have to winterize. We can winterize, that's not a big deal, but we will likely put a heat source in the garage one way or another. We plan to insulate well (2x6 construction). So, just a gas furnace like our house garage? Anyone done radiant in-floor heat? Is that more or less economical if you were trying to maintain 40 degrees in the winter? Could that be bad for some other reason?5. Ventilation?--Not certain what the options are here, but I wouldn't mind being able to ventilate when needed without opening the doors - some sort of forced air system. Haven't put much thought into this yet, so it's kind of a random issue.6. Anything else you didn't consider and wish you had???Thanks!

I would suggest a 14 X 14 Door, raise the ceiling to 16ft; you will be able to work on the roof of 13’6” RV’s and your garage door operators will fit more easily. Suggest the building width 20ft, length 50 for resaleSlope the floor to a drain for washing your RV.Use 2” foil faced insulation on the walls and ceiling to make a cheap to quickly heat building. Our winters regularly get into the low tens and sometimes single digits. I set the heat at 40 and it rarely runs. I can bring the inside temp to 60 in about 20 minutes with the propane heater. Cost to heat last year was about $265.00.Rough in plumbing in a corner for a hand washing sink and maybe a toilet. It saves me from tracking grease and dirt into the house.Think about wiring for a 220 volt air compressor.

I'd run wiring for a 50 amp rig. If burying wire, PUT IN CONDUIT or some %$#$ critter will eat part of the wires making you rerun wires. Do not ask how I discovered this.I'd also look to see how hard it was to add a dump inlet. Sure would be nice.Be sure garage is WIDE and LONG enough that you can use a creeper all around, even after the junk starts piling up around the walls. Know someone who has to move RV out of garage to work on it. Boy is he unhappy about that.If you plan on washing inside, not something I would do, have the foundation extend up the walls about 16" above the floor. Makes spraying floor much easier, and saves wetting sheetrock.

I can tell you that I am presently in a 14x50 and it is definitely not wide enough.

Interesting. Thanks for the feedback so far! It's helpful to hear about the width issues - I would really like to minimize width, so it's good to hear real-world situations. I was thinking 18' is the practical minimum, and debating whether I should just do 20'.We would definitely include 30/50 amp outlets -- apparently in conduit!

I got lucky and purchased a garage from my township, about 3 miles from my home. They kept road equipment in it but sold it because it "rained" inside in the winter. They heated it with unvented gas space heaters that caused condensation. I replaced them with vented furnaces and it stopped raining inside. Plenty of room for my 'C' and toad.Features - 60' x 60' building and 40' high. Concrete floor with drains. Plenty of electric power, including a 30amp outlet for the RV, All metal and insulated, including roof. 3 12' x 12' doors with electric openers. 8' ventilation fan high on one wall and vent panel on opposite wall. Full bath including shower and work sink.Because I'm unmarried and retired, I've added a 10' long bar and back bar, big screen TV with Dish Network, a juke box that plays 45's, a pin ball machine, a bowling machine, theater size popcorn machine, kitchen with fridge, freezer, stove, microwave. And no neighbors. I'm growing old, but I'm never growing up. :)

Recommendations for RV Garage? | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

az99
Explorer
May 15, 2013
50' long for sure and 16' high and as wide as you can make it. I have never heard anyone complain that they built their garage too big.:)

The door size of 12'x14' works fine. Lay out the door spacing so you can open the slides fully and still get around.

I have radiant heat, and love it, in all my house and garage floors but I don't think I would put it in a barn as it is very slow to increase temp and then over heats. Plus it is expensive for initial install just to keep it at 40º.
SRT
Explorer
May 15, 2013
From personal experience the concrete slab should have mesh embedded for extra strength. The slab should be at least 20'x50' with one coarse of concrete blocks around the edges. A 12' wide by 14' high door should allow adequate clearance. The garage should be wired for at least 30 amp and if you can have it plumbed for sewer. I just put in one of those water inlets through the wall to hook the hose up to it. Then a short hose to the MH.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
May 15, 2013
Considering your personal needs and the local codes, you could consider an unheated pole barn. it is what fits your needs.
Jim_Shoe
Explorer
May 15, 2013
I got lucky and purchased a garage from my township, about 3 miles from my home. They kept road equipment in it but sold it because it "rained" inside in the winter. They heated it with unvented gas space heaters that caused condensation. I replaced them with vented furnaces and it stopped raining inside. Plenty of room for my 'C' and toad.
Features - 60' x 60' building and 40' high. Concrete floor with drains. Plenty of electric power, including a 30amp outlet for the RV, All metal and insulated, including roof. 3 12' x 12' doors with electric openers. 8' ventilation fan high on one wall and vent panel on opposite wall. Full bath including shower and work sink.
Because I'm unmarried and retired, I've added a 10' long bar and back bar, big screen TV with Dish Network, a juke box that plays 45's, a pin ball machine, a bowling machine, theater size popcorn machine, kitchen with fridge, freezer, stove, microwave. And no neighbors. I'm growing old, but I'm never growing up. :)
alliemac9
Explorer
May 15, 2013
Interesting. Thanks for the feedback so far! It's helpful to hear about the width issues - I would really like to minimize width, so it's good to hear real-world situations. I was thinking 18' is the practical minimum, and debating whether I should just do 20'.

We would definitely include 30/50 amp outlets -- apparently in conduit!
Flyfisherman128
Explorer
May 15, 2013
I can tell you that I am presently in a 14x50 and it is definitely not wide enough.
Chuck_Gail
Explorer
May 15, 2013
I'd run wiring for a 50 amp rig. If burying wire, PUT IN CONDUIT or some %$#$ critter will eat part of the wires making you rerun wires. Do not ask how I discovered this.

I'd also look to see how hard it was to add a dump inlet. Sure would be nice.

Be sure garage is WIDE and LONG enough that you can use a creeper all around, even after the junk starts piling up around the walls. Know someone who has to move RV out of garage to work on it. Boy is he unhappy about that.

If you plan on washing inside, not something I would do, have the foundation extend up the walls about 16" above the floor. Makes spraying floor much easier, and saves wetting sheetrock.
WMMitchell81554
Explorer
May 15, 2013
I would suggest a 14 X 14 Door, raise the ceiling to 16ft; you will be able to work on the roof of 13’6” RV’s and your garage door operators will fit more easily. Suggest the building width 20ft, length 50 for resale
Slope the floor to a drain for washing your RV.
Use 2” foil faced insulation on the walls and ceiling to make a cheap to quickly heat building. Our winters regularly get into the low tens and sometimes single digits. I set the heat at 40 and it rarely runs. I can bring the inside temp to 60 in about 20 minutes with the propane heater. Cost to heat last year was about $265.00.
Rough in plumbing in a corner for a hand washing sink and maybe a toilet. It saves me from tracking grease and dirt into the house.
Think about wiring for a 220 volt air compressor.

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Recommendations for RV Garage?

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