Reese DC question - frame height

myredracer wrote:


I've seen the photos where the Reese hitch head can clash with the lower front of the A-frame. I know you can get a 1" raised ball, but if that isn't enough? I haven't been able to find info or pics of an A-frame on an 8" frame. I just don't know if there is anything to worry about yet or if there could be geometry and clearance issues.

Our A-frame consists of tubing now and I assume the new one will be too. WDH was bought new last year and seems to be all made in China components. Not a question in this discussion, but I bought a 2nd pair of spring bars (1200 lbs) that are 1/2" longer then the 800 lb ones.

There are properly rated 2" hi rise tow balls. On my vintage HP trunnion bar head, Reese tech service said I could use a 2" hi rise ball if I needed to. I only needed a 1" hi rise ball and a 1/4" heavy washer creating 1 1/4". I have the 3 piece welded head on this camper.

Your new all cast one piece HP trunnion bar hitch head has a higher boss on the top to gain more ball nut clearance. That helps lower the hitch head, and if needed you can confirm with Reese if they will allow a 2" hi rise ball on the new all cast 1 piece head. I feel they will, however you can confirm. Again this would be a 1st step "if" you have an 8" tall A frame which I doubt you will. I will see if I can hunt to find the 8" tall cargo trailer frame with the DC.

Once you get the info on the A frame size, report back and we can start prepping for that.

You mentioned up-sizing the WD bars to 1,200# bars. Yes, the 1,200#'ers can be longer than the 800#. I have seen that too on mine. You just need to adjust properly for it.

Which leads to the installation of the hitch. Will you be mounting the DC or will the dealer? Unfortunately I have seen too many not installed correctly. It seems drilling on the DC can be a handful if not understood correctly. They drill it on in the wrong spot... If you are going to do it, let us know I'll pass along some pointers.

Another heads up is if your new A frame is rectangular tubing and you are going to 1,200# bars/TW, a heads up about the need for bolting on snap up's and preventing tube frame crush, both at the DC area and the snap up. Several members with 1,000# and up TW's have had the bent snap up unless they bolt on the snap up and add a form of anti tube crush plate. Not all tube A frames are created equal. The tube thickness can vary. Here is one members recent tube frame crush problem. This is the worst I have seen. Not saying you will have this, but for sure something to try and prevent before you get into it. His post starts out with setup and ends up with frame crush Dual Cam Setup

If you search on bent snap ups you should turn up some of the other snap up issues. Reese now puts it in the instructions about bolting on the snap-up of heavier TW's.

Hope this helps

John