Reese DC question - frame height
We have a new TT coming shortly and it has an 8" high frame on it. Does this mean it will have a taller A-frame too? We presently have a Reese DC WDH with trunnion bars that I just love. If the A-f...
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Interesting! I've seen photos and read about the different methods of bolting the bracket on. A crush tube from side to side, a plate on the inside with nuts welded on, re-enforcing plates, etc. Are those studs just threaded into just the 1/4" radiused plate and is it welded on? I'm not overly impressed with the forming screws. From the little reading I've done, they were originally designed for malleable and soft materials like plastic and aluminum. Very expensive too. I just can't see them holding in the 1/8" A-frame wall that long. It's surprising to see Reese make the brackets the way they do and they don't mate up to the A-frame tubing because of different radii.
I was thinking of using a re-enforcing plate on the inside of the A-frame and through-bolting from the outside
1/4" does not affect the geometry at all?
I was thinking of using a re-enforcing plate on the inside of the A-frame and through-bolting from the outside
1/4" does not affect the geometry at all?
mrekim wrote:myredracer wrote:
Related to this, I read the (long) thread on the DC setup a couple of months back. Excellent read. I am going to the opportunity to mount the cam arm brackets better this time with shims to account for the difference in the radii of the A-frame and bracket. I've noticed these brackets have moved a bit which I don't like. Will check square and true, etc. at the same time. I have a feeling the threads on the 4 bolts holding the brackets on may be slightly damaged so am going to order some new ones to be safe. Not sure if I can use a tap and similar bolt without having to use the Reese one.
If the frame is 1/8" tube I would not use the self tapping bolts and my shim would be 1/4" steel plate with a radius ground in for the DC mount - like this:
