Forum Discussion
myredracer
Oct 19, 2018Explorer II
Are you talking about the cam arm brackets or snap-up brackets? Have some pics?
When I got our Reese DC package, the cam arm brackets were poorly formed as in the pic below. I called Reese and explained the issue. They supposedly had a bad run of them for a while.
The radius on the brackets does not match the standard radius corners on A-frame tubing. I cut a piece of 1/4" steel to match the bracket dimensions and then ground a radius along one edge to match the bracket.
When I got our WDH, it came with forming screws. These can loosen over time when tongue weight gets up to around 1000 - 1200 lbs. This happened in the first season on ours with around 950 lbs TW. I "through-bolted" the brackets on and used a piece of pipe with backing plates temporarily threaded onto the ends and pushed the pipe into the ends of the A-frame tubing. I torqued the bolts to 75 lbs-ft (IIRC). This has worked great for 4 or 5 seasons now. Not sure how well the rivnuts work over time but I'm not so sure I like the way they protrude outwards from the A-frame. You could probably counter-sink them into a piece of steel?
BTW, be very careful that you drill holes in the A-frame in the exact correct location. What I discovered is that the cam arm brackets need to be mounted in slightly different locations (measured from coupler) because different bar ratings can be different lengths and the threads on the cam arms cannot make up the difference.
A similar thing could be done with the snap-up bracket bolts. Reese has heavy duty brackets with an extra hole in them for a bolt to help keep it in place. I have seen photos of these brackets pulling away from the A-frame but was on very high tongue weights.


When I got our Reese DC package, the cam arm brackets were poorly formed as in the pic below. I called Reese and explained the issue. They supposedly had a bad run of them for a while.
The radius on the brackets does not match the standard radius corners on A-frame tubing. I cut a piece of 1/4" steel to match the bracket dimensions and then ground a radius along one edge to match the bracket.
When I got our WDH, it came with forming screws. These can loosen over time when tongue weight gets up to around 1000 - 1200 lbs. This happened in the first season on ours with around 950 lbs TW. I "through-bolted" the brackets on and used a piece of pipe with backing plates temporarily threaded onto the ends and pushed the pipe into the ends of the A-frame tubing. I torqued the bolts to 75 lbs-ft (IIRC). This has worked great for 4 or 5 seasons now. Not sure how well the rivnuts work over time but I'm not so sure I like the way they protrude outwards from the A-frame. You could probably counter-sink them into a piece of steel?
BTW, be very careful that you drill holes in the A-frame in the exact correct location. What I discovered is that the cam arm brackets need to be mounted in slightly different locations (measured from coupler) because different bar ratings can be different lengths and the threads on the cam arms cannot make up the difference.
A similar thing could be done with the snap-up bracket bolts. Reese has heavy duty brackets with an extra hole in them for a bolt to help keep it in place. I have seen photos of these brackets pulling away from the A-frame but was on very high tongue weights.


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