Reese Dual Cam HP frame brackets
Ordered a new set and it’s new stock. Install instructions are revT 2017. This kit has the rivenuts in it. Holding the frame brackets onto my frame and they do not appear to bent to the full 90 (I...
Forum Discussion
Try phoning Reese again. When I had our issue with the cam arm brackets they sent me new ones, no questions asked and no need to send them photos. They've had manufacturing issues with these in the past and it's a known problem. Below is a photo I what ours looked like at first. Unacceptable.
Another option would be to take them to a welding shop, get them to heat up the metal with a torch and bend it to 90 degrees. But if the bottom isn't flat, it's not going to be a good solution.
First photo shows the brackets I originally received when I bought the DC package and the replacements sent by Reese. Big difference! I don't understand how Reese could have let this stuff get out into the marketplace. Poor QC somewhere...
If you have the 17K setup and have a TW upwards of about 1200 lbs, I would NOT use Reese's forming screws. The A-frame tubing is quite thin and you won't get enough thread engaged which will end up loosening. The best solution IMO is to through-bolt through the A-frame tubing.
I cut away the end cover on the A-frame tubing. Made up a plate with nuts welded on one side. Welded a bolt to end of the plate. Welded a nut to the end of a piece of EMT tubing (after removing the plating). Pushed the EMT into the A-frame tubing and bolted it on with new bolts along with some loctite and tightened to 75 ft-lbs (IIRC). Plug-welded the plate onto the A-frame tubing, sanded down the welds and touched up with some paint.
Made some shims to match the radius between the bracket and A-frame tubing. Just took some 3/16" flat stock steel and ground the radius by hand with an angle grinder. End result is a very tight fit between brackets and A-frame. I did this 5 years ago and it has been good ever since.
Once you take the time to deal with the idiosyncrasies of the Reese DC, it's a truly excellent WDH. I love ours and how it performs.
Another option would be to take them to a welding shop, get them to heat up the metal with a torch and bend it to 90 degrees. But if the bottom isn't flat, it's not going to be a good solution.
First photo shows the brackets I originally received when I bought the DC package and the replacements sent by Reese. Big difference! I don't understand how Reese could have let this stuff get out into the marketplace. Poor QC somewhere...
If you have the 17K setup and have a TW upwards of about 1200 lbs, I would NOT use Reese's forming screws. The A-frame tubing is quite thin and you won't get enough thread engaged which will end up loosening. The best solution IMO is to through-bolt through the A-frame tubing.
I cut away the end cover on the A-frame tubing. Made up a plate with nuts welded on one side. Welded a bolt to end of the plate. Welded a nut to the end of a piece of EMT tubing (after removing the plating). Pushed the EMT into the A-frame tubing and bolted it on with new bolts along with some loctite and tightened to 75 ft-lbs (IIRC). Plug-welded the plate onto the A-frame tubing, sanded down the welds and touched up with some paint.
Made some shims to match the radius between the bracket and A-frame tubing. Just took some 3/16" flat stock steel and ground the radius by hand with an angle grinder. End result is a very tight fit between brackets and A-frame. I did this 5 years ago and it has been good ever since.
Once you take the time to deal with the idiosyncrasies of the Reese DC, it's a truly excellent WDH. I love ours and how it performs.
