Reese WD head clarification
Hey Guys I have a Reese weight distributing hitch with trunnion bars along with dual cam setup. It was purchased in 2010 may but wether it was made in that era is unknown. It came with 1200/12000 b...
Forum Discussion
Steve,
The hitch in your pics is one of the ones I have. It is the 3 pieces welded head with the 2004 vintage HP DC. When set up correctly, it will work well.
There are 1,200# WD bars. Means you can use them on a loaded tongue weight so up to 1,200#.
That height can accept, 600,800,1200, 1,500 and 1,700# WD bars. However...the 1,500# bars is over your OEM receiver and the 1,700# bars need a 2 1/2" shank and a new truck receiver.
Something is not adding up with those numbers. The trailer both diffs is not the sum of the front and rear. Is there a typo?
I was trying to calculate percent TW on the GVW of the camper but do not know where the raw data error is.
1,500# WD bars may do the trailer TW for you but you will need a truck receiver upgrade if you are still on the OEM original as it is rated at 1,250# in WD mode. They are not hard to change unless the bolts are rusted solid.
Your truck and mine are not that different. I have some of the 2005 upgrades on the redesign year but the essentials are the same.
This is my receiver upgrade
F350 Receiver Upgrade - (Pic's)
Here is what the hitch setup looks like
You can buy just the WD bars as replacements. They run $92 US each
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP58369.html
Or you can buy the entire 1,500 # hitch and DC for $535 US
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66130.html but you need a shank and a tow ball. Approx ~ $110 more
If you feel the camper will go up in loaded tongue weight, then the next jump is the 1,700 Straightline but it needs the 2 1/2 shank and the 2 1/2" receiver. I have both
We also need to talk about what your trailer A frame is made out of, channel iron or tube steel and where is the ball coupler? On top or the bottom? There are different setup needs for these. Some pics of the A frame would help tell us what you have.
Your truck and camper need a WD hitch for sure to help create a stable towing setup. Tire pressure plays a big role in stability. We can get that and the setup too once you sort out what you will get.
I'll leave you with this, the Reese DC is a good tool for towing however it needs to be set up correct and the mounting on the trailer needs to be correct or issues can and have come from an incorrect setup. Again need to know what kind of A frame is on the camper to help better.
Hope this helps
John
The hitch in your pics is one of the ones I have. It is the 3 pieces welded head with the 2004 vintage HP DC. When set up correctly, it will work well.
There are 1,200# WD bars. Means you can use them on a loaded tongue weight so up to 1,200#.
That height can accept, 600,800,1200, 1,500 and 1,700# WD bars. However...the 1,500# bars is over your OEM receiver and the 1,700# bars need a 2 1/2" shank and a new truck receiver.
Steve wrote:
tounge weight( trailer unhooked and jack sitting on scale) : 1386
trailer front diff :4004
trailer rear diff : 2948
trailer both diffs: 7700
Something is not adding up with those numbers. The trailer both diffs is not the sum of the front and rear. Is there a typo?
I was trying to calculate percent TW on the GVW of the camper but do not know where the raw data error is.
1,500# WD bars may do the trailer TW for you but you will need a truck receiver upgrade if you are still on the OEM original as it is rated at 1,250# in WD mode. They are not hard to change unless the bolts are rusted solid.
Your truck and mine are not that different. I have some of the 2005 upgrades on the redesign year but the essentials are the same.
This is my receiver upgrade
F350 Receiver Upgrade - (Pic's)
Here is what the hitch setup looks like
You can buy just the WD bars as replacements. They run $92 US each
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP58369.html
Or you can buy the entire 1,500 # hitch and DC for $535 US
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66130.html but you need a shank and a tow ball. Approx ~ $110 more
If you feel the camper will go up in loaded tongue weight, then the next jump is the 1,700 Straightline but it needs the 2 1/2 shank and the 2 1/2" receiver. I have both
We also need to talk about what your trailer A frame is made out of, channel iron or tube steel and where is the ball coupler? On top or the bottom? There are different setup needs for these. Some pics of the A frame would help tell us what you have.
Your truck and camper need a WD hitch for sure to help create a stable towing setup. Tire pressure plays a big role in stability. We can get that and the setup too once you sort out what you will get.
I'll leave you with this, the Reese DC is a good tool for towing however it needs to be set up correct and the mounting on the trailer needs to be correct or issues can and have come from an incorrect setup. Again need to know what kind of A frame is on the camper to help better.
Hope this helps
John
