rv fridge
If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?
Forum Discussion
valhalla360 wrote:
Dedmiston is pretty much correct, though you could argue some of the semantics.
A traditional RV absorption fridge is still a great option for boondocking. It's needs a tiny amount of 12v DC power to run the control board and a tank of propane is good for weeks of operation. Downside is they are slow to cool the interior. If you are on shore power, there is an electric heating element that replaces the heat from the propane flame. Some even have a 12v heating element but that's pretty inefficient.
Then you have 12v DC fridges. These can run directly off battery power and because they were designed for low power consumption are probably the best option for running off electricity without shorepower. They still use far more power than the control board on an absorption fridge but a decent battery bank and/or connection via the umbilical cable to the trucks alternator output is typically plenty to keep then going. If you want to spend multiple days off grid, you will need a means of generating power before your battery bank dies (most commonly solar or generator) but no need for an inverter.
Then you have residential 120v AC fridges. Newer ones are generally not quite as good as 12v fridges in terms of efficiency but not horrible. A downside is you need an inverter to convert the 12v DC to 120v AC. That adds, cost, complication and you will likely lose some power to the conversion.
If you are always on shore power when parked, a residential fridge is a fine option. They will hold cold during driving days just fine.
If you will boondock a lot, absorption is still the ideal but if you put in a good solar system with an upsized battery bank, 12v is very much viable.
Many newer RV's (even entry level) are switching to 12v.
The much bigger deal than the inefficiency it's that the inverter draws a load 24x7 which eats quite a few watt-hours. For inverters rated at say 2kw this actually ends up eating more Wh than their inefficiency. What some folks do is have a relatively small inverter that is just big enough to handle the motor surge of the fridge and then have a second inverter for running loads like the microwave or coffee pot which they can turn off when not in use.
