Sheared Lugs
New to this forum. It is winter but in a few months it will be time to go get the camper out of storage. My last camping outing was ended abruptly and I can't stop thinking about it. I was towing i...
Forum Discussion
eHoefler wrote:
may have wrong wheels, need to be hub centric wheels, not stud supported
I HIGHLY DOUBT THIS. First I don't think I have EVERY heard or seen a trailer wheel that is hub centric which will typically use the flat washer type fastening system and will require exacting torques well in excess of 120 more like 150 to 165. While all passenger type vehicles use the hub pilot centering method regardless of whether they use the typical flat washer fastening system or the older beveled or tapered fastening system my understanding is that many trailers may actually use what is typically called a lug centric system where the wheel is truly centered on the hub by the lug nuts.
While this is only a guess it could be that the wheels were of the tapered seat type with a larger than typical wheel pilot hole and where improperly fastened. Also, as mentioned it is critical to check the torques several times like 3 about 100 to 200 miles apart after the wheel has been removed for what ever reason. Also, when I say improper it is important to torque these wheels that use the tapered seat type fastening system in stages so that each lug nut has maximum clamping power. This is especially true if you have a large hub pilot to wheel pilot size difference since the initial fully torque one lug nut will result in one or two having a significantly lesser clamping force since the tapered lug nut surface will have less contact with the taped wheel seat for those lug nuts. Ideally you want all the lug nut to wheel tapered seat contact to be the same for each wheel stud.
I like to use finger tight 10, 30 and then three more stages up to the typical 90 to 110 used for most of the tapered seat fastening system specs.
Larry
