Sheared Lugs
New to this forum. It is winter but in a few months it will be time to go get the camper out of storage. My last camping outing was ended abruptly and I can't stop thinking about it. I was towing i...
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Old-Biscuit wrote:Turtle n Peeps wrote:Old-Biscuit wrote:
90-120 lbs/ft torque IS normal for 1/2" stud with steel wheels
Maybe NOT. :B
The chart I posted is for 'Trailer' wheels/studs
Yours is for 'Automotive'
If no specification is available, the following chart based on lug diameter, is a rough guide. This should never be used to replace manufacturer's specifications and is only an approximation. Lugs should be tightened to proper specification as soon information is available.
So maybe , maybe not.......and THAT is what causes over-torquing issues.
The trailer chart states a range 90-120. So is it 90, 95, 115, 120.
At least your chart only states one value even IF it is for automotive which aren't subjected to the same sideways/twisting torque trailer wheels/tires are from maneuvering
:H
:B
You make some VERY IMPORTANT and not so subtle points which Turtle evidently doesn't understand when he posted that generic and basically non germane AUTOMOTIVE reference. I can't prove it or provide a authoritative reference, but IMO the higher torque specs for trailer wheels are in fact to cover the sideways/twisting - scuffing in specifically tandem axle trailers. This concern is also why I think it is recommended that one due multiple torque checks (i.e. more than the one typically recommended for normal automotive applications). In fact AFAIK most trailer manufacturers recommend that the wheel torque be checked even like once or twice annually during normal non wheel removal operations.
I will give that automotive article one kudo in their statement that all OEM wheels are hub pilot centered (i.e. HUB CENTRIC) even when the beveled/tapered seat fastening system is used and this "lug centric" nuisance is only found in some aftermarket wheel applications for automobiles.
Larry
