Oreonut wrote:
Reading on all this hitch talk trying to figure out what we should purchase. For 14 years we towed a 32' Sunny Brook using a Hensley. Like dummies we sold the whole thing as one unit.
Here we are two years later missing camping and starting all over again. We will have a Chevy 2500 and possibly a Forest River Wildwood 31KQBTS rolling in at a total of 36'7" - weight at 8573.
Not as heavy as our previous trailer but 3' longer.
Been out of the game for a long while and not sure whether to dump the money on a ProPride or if other hitches have come along way since 2006 and something else would be just as good.
Any suggestions??
Thanks!
Hi,
I'm showing this trying to be helpful, so you can see what that camper is and how it stacks up against your camping situation.
If this is the trailer you are looking at,
https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers-and-fifth-wheels/wildwood/31KQBTS/6897The Unloaded weight (UVW) is 8,573# which means an empty camper, no battery, and since a spare tire is an option, no spare tire is most likely.
The Cargo capacity (CCC) is listed as 1,292#. I'll add a comment that CCC is low in my view on a 36' 7" long camper with bunks. WOW, you will have to watch the weights, or you will overrun the GVWR easily. You have a lot of space, but the ratings do not allow much cargo capacity. The bunks suggest kids; kids have the stuff to bring too. Trust me; the adults have stuff too...
Adding UVW + CCC = 9,865# GVWR.
The dry empty tongue weight is 905#. When that floor plans loads, the loaded tongue could be 1,200, maybe 1,300#.
You can end up without much issue having close to a 10,000# camper with 12 to 13% loaded tongue weight. The tongue weight to gross vehicle weight ratio is OK, don't go lighter. You do not want to get lighter on the tongue on a camper that long.
In my opinion, you want a WD hitch for a travel trailer of that size. The truck receiver may require it to handle the 1,200 to 1,300# tongue weight. Check the sticker on the receiver; there are 2 ratings. Weight carrying and Weight Distribution. And if you are on the original 2006 GM receiver, have it checked for weld cracks and rust at the pin box weld. You may need a receiver upgrade.
Now to a camper 37 ft long, you did not state your wheelbase. Since you are looking at a bunkhouse, that can mean kids, which may mean a crew cab. The crew cab helps on the wheelbase. The long bed is better than a short bed, but the short bed crew cab can work if the hitch setup is good.
Now the hitch. I have an F350 CC, short bed with the Reese DC, 16% loaded tongue weight, 10K loaded 32 ft camper. The heavy suspension truck and the hitch work well with this combo, but it is not invincible. You are 5 ft longer on lighter truck suspension. From my experience, the Reese DC or the Equal-I-izer WD hitch would be the minimum setup. You get WD and some anti-sway help. When large cross winds come, the odds are favorable that at 37 ft you will find the edge of your truck and either of those two hitches to tame out heavy cross winds, 30 mph plus. You are going to feel it.
Everyone has how close to the edge they want to tow at and have comfortable towing. At 37 ft I would look if I can find an older Pullrite WD hitch or go with the Pro
Pride/Hensley. Pullrite is used to make one of the best towing concepts WD hitches. But I see they no longer even show it on their website. It may be discontinued.
You may want to look hard at the CCC of that trailer you are looking at. Odds are, you will run out of cargo capacity by the weights on that length camper. They likely have the suspension on the camper-sized right at the limit having the truck hold up part of the GVWR. And maybe even the new infamous 4,400# axle setup with 10" brakes. ERRRR. They do not list the tire size or axle ratings. I'm a little more old school. A 10K camper should have 10,000# of running gear on it. And tires rated 20% higher then the heaviest wheel.
Hope this helps
John
