Forum Discussion

Fordlover's avatar
Fordlover
Explorer
May 19, 2018

Should I use my Equal-i-zer?

Bit of a long story, so bear with me.

We just sold our old camper, but have had no luck selling our 600/6,000 lbs. Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch.

New trailer is 32' foot 750 lb. tongue weight 6500 lb. empty. We moved all the stuff from the old camper to the new one and it is nearly exactly 700 lbs of stuff. We will be <8,000 lbs. rolling down the road with the new camper.

Truck is a 2018 F-250 crew 4x4 6.2 V8. Hitch rating is 1,500/15,000 no WD hitch required. Payload sticker allows for nearly 3,000 lbs.

My question is should I set up the 6,000 lb. hitch to tow with the new truck? In my evaluation, I contacted Progress manufacturing, and asked them about my setup. They advised my drop shank is the same between the 6,000 model all the way up to the 14,000 unit. The limitation seems to be the WD bars and sockets on the hitch head. I won't be distributing much weight with the bars because the truck doesn't squat much with the hitch weight. I'm mostly interested in the sway mitigation in the event I ever experience big wind or evasive maneuvering for some reason.

Obviously Progress MFG. couldn't advise I go over the limit of the hitch, but did confirm the bars/sockets are the limiting factor and that my shank, L brackets, etc. are the same across the models. So using the hitch to transfer less weight of the hitch I'm thinking will permit me to use the hitch with my new set up.

anyway, lets see what everyone thinks.
  • The bar for you Equal-I-Zer are too light for the trailer. You should get a pair of 10,000 lb bars. Unless the hitch head is damaged or warn it will be correct for the new bars.
  • What's the worst that could happen? You could crack the hitch head when greater than normal stress is encountered (think of going through a swale or hitting a big bump). You could also have insufficient friction to counter the sway; a heavier TT needs greater friction to dampen unwanted motion, but you can't apply greater friction because of the hitch's limitations. So, I vote for a new hitch.

    If you don't want to spend on a heavier Equal-i-zer, the Husky Centerline TS appears to work in the same manner but is priced lower.
  • X2, Lynnmor. OP, how’s your panic braking with the new TT? Front wheels doing their share? Or do you know?
  • First, the squat of the truck is not the purpose of a WDH, it is to distribute some of the weight to the front axle. After adjusting weight transfer properly, then you can adjust squat with springs or air bags if needed. That 600 lb unit would be better than nothing, just don't try to adjust it in a way that exceeds the 600 lb rating. The correct way is to just install the right WDH to get full benefit of weight distribution and sway control, but you already know that.
  • Fordlover wrote:
    We just sold our old camper, but have had no luck selling our 600/6,000 lbs. Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch.

    New trailer is 32' foot 750 lb. tongue weight 6500 lb. empty. We moved all the stuff from the old camper to the new one and it is nearly exactly 700 lbs of stuff. We will be <8,000 lbs. rolling down the road with the new camper.

    anyway, lets see what everyone thinks.


    This new trailer should be running well over 1000 lbs of gross tongue weight so no, I wouldn't use a 600 / 6000 lb Equal-i-zer even though you say you intend to not load it much. JMO, but this is just one of many advantages of the Blue Ox Sway Pro - change trailers and all you have to do is change the spring bars to best match it, everything else remains the same. Perhaps you're asking too much for your Equal-i-zer? :@

About RV Tips & Tricks

Looking for advice before your next adventure? Look no further.25,116 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 08, 2025