Silverado 1500 & Travel Trailer

BenK wrote:
Your manual page says a 5.3L has a GCWR of 12,000 and a MTWR of 6,800

That then says 12,000 - 6,800 = 5,200 that your TV can weigh if you wish to tow
at the MTWR

Then take your 6,800 GVWR and subtract the max cargo/payload of 1,561 from your
TREAD sticker (Transportation Recall Enhancement, Accountability, and Documentation)
DOT Tread Act
Reference footnote 26

6,800 - 1,561 = 5,239, which confirms that the TREAD label uses the 'curb'
weight of your TV (with a 39 lb differential)

It's all simple math, but the OP still needs to know his actual weight in order
to figure what his 'actual' tow rating is


Here is how the ratings system looks like and works. Again, simple math and the
hard part is gathering the data along with actually weighing your rig

You were looking at the top of the manual which is a different truck. I have the 1500 series 2WD Crew Cab Short box with the option added of HD Cooling Pkg (noted in the RPO Label in the glove box as K5L) and 3.42 Axle Ratio (noted in the RPO Label in the glove box as GU6) MTW 9600 lbs, GCWR 15,000, GVWR 6800, Or am I reading something wrong here? This is why I am so confused....

There is nothing added to the truck except a plastic liner in the bed. But I will have wife and 4 kids in the truck which will be including myself 775 lbs extra weight.

BenK wrote:
Ops forgot a couple things...

That TREAD Act label's 1,561 lb max cargo/payload is misleading, as it is based
or derived from the 'curb' weight. Unless you own a stripper model, that max
cargo/payload does NOT apply to you.

Why recommend going out and actually weighing your rig ready to go camping (fully
loaded with cargo and people)


Also, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

If not, then do whatever

If yes, then learn how that system works and gather the proper information

Good luck!

Maybe I have misunderstood the "Tire & Loading Info" sticker, but I thought the listed max cargo weight on each sticker was for "that specific vehicle"? Including an empty gas tank, which is something else that needs to be included towards max cargo weight.

AzRattle,

Your payload as you have found out is 1561lbs as the truck left the factory, but remember: ANYTHING you may have added (or the dealer add ons) to the truck after it left the factory needs to be subtracted from the 1561lbs. Tonneau cover/ topper, side steps, spray in bed liner, etc...

While they may not seem like much, weight adds up very quickly!!!!

We had a '10 Chevy 1500 crewcab short bed 4x4, 5.3/6spd/3.42 that had 1550lbs of payload the way it left the factorty. After a cab high topper, side steps, mud flaps, WeatherTech mats f&r, growing family of 4, we were at or over the gvwr depending on how we were loaded by up to 200lbs. That was with 4 bikes in the bed of the truck (kids 20" box store bikes actually weigh more than our bikes!!!) and a tongue wieght of 920lbs, total trailer weight was about 7300lbs.

About how much do all the passenger weigh that will be in the truck? Do you plan on taking firewood? Coolers in the truck bed, or trailer? Keep all this in mind as you load the truck & trailer.

As for trailer weight, depening on estimated total weight that will be loaded in the truck, as mentioned, maybe up to 6klbs empty, but the lower you can keep the starting trailer weight the better! On average, people add about 1klbs of cargo to the empty trailer weight.

Powerwise, you should be fine. While I never towed in any mountains, I never felt I needed more power. Just drop a gear, and let the motor rev.

Also keep in mind the factory P rated tires may not be up to the job, and you may consider stepping up to a set of LT tires, LR C will do.

Good luck!

Ops forgot a couple things...

That TREAD Act label's 1,561 lb max cargo/payload is misleading, as it is based
or derived from the 'curb' weight. Unless you own a stripper model, that max
cargo/payload does NOT apply to you.

Why recommend going out and actually weighing your rig ready to go camping (fully
loaded with cargo and people)


Also, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

If not, then do whatever

If yes, then learn how that system works and gather the proper information

Good luck!

Your manual page says a 5.3L has a GCWR of 12,000 and a MTWR of 6,800

That then says 12,000 - 6,800 = 5,200 that your TV can weigh if you wish to tow
at the MTWR

Then take your 6,800 GVWR and subtract the max cargo/payload of 1,561 from your
TREAD sticker (Transportation Recall Enhancement, Accountability, and Documentation)
DOT Tread Act
Reference footnote 26

6,800 - 1,561 = 5,239, which confirms that the TREAD label uses the 'curb'
weight of your TV (with a 39 lb differential)

It's all simple math, but the OP still needs to know his actual weight in order
to figure what his 'actual' tow rating is


Here is how the ratings system looks like and works. Again, simple math and the
hard part is gathering the data along with actually weighing your rig
howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow

Here are some pics, I hope this helps...

2009 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 1500 2WD Short Box
vin # 2GCEC23J491105686

my glove box info tells me = GU6 which is a 3.42 & a K5L which is a HD Cooling package?

So it looks like (if i'm correct) I have the 5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg..
Which gives me (according to the manual):
3.42 Axle Ratio
9,600 lbs Maximum Trailer Weight
15,000 lbs GCWR

Tongue Weight according to the manual on page 4-63:

The trailer tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum 600 lbs (272 kg) for the 1500 or 2500 series with a "weight carrying hitch".

The trailer tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (453 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a maximum of 1,500 lbs (680 kg) for the 2500, 2500 HD or 3500 series with a "weight distributing hitch".


Thanks for the help guys...


Click For Full-Size Photo


Click For Full-Size Photo


Click For Full-Size Photo


Click For Full-Size Photo.

I've been reading these RVing forums for 5 years. I have never heard anyone say 1000 pound rule. 20% frequently, maybe once a week. So 1000 pounds from today's 10k+ tow rated half tons is still far away from reality and a good place to start. 6k dry. That's a good place to start. Same as 15 years ago and half tons.

Today's trucks can tow things quicker using less fuel. Aand if you tow a boat or flat bed car hauler, 10k is reasonable. For RVing the 6-8k tow ratings of half tons 10-20 years still applies. My 99 and 2003 F-150 Lariats had 1300-1400 pounds of payload, same as today's standard HD towing package half tons. Ram lower, GM higher. Toyota/Nissan the same as I had. F-150 has those two payload improving packages.

Without knowing the exact details of specific payload, 6k dry is my safe recommendation. That's 7000-7500 pounds loaded for long weekends and week long trips and 1000 pounds of TW. Half ton owning RVers that stay near 6k dry are pleased with performance and handling. Those that tow 8k+ tend to upgrade their trucks, driver slower than 65mph for stability, camp closer to home, etc.

APT wrote:

I have never heard of that "rule". The "20% rule" is more common but that is not a rule either. Towing a 9600 pound loaded RV with a family onboard will put 99% of half tons on the market over GVWR and rear axle ratings. That is to say that tow rating and GCWR are almost worthless for these 8k+ tow rated half tons.

That "rule" (and note I used quotes because nothing is hard and fast) is used by a lot of folks on the boards here, as is the "20% rule". Note I said to use it as a starting point, not a hard and fast decision making point. Which is exactly why I cautioned about guessing. But your point is well taken. The problem with a 9600# trailer is that the tongue weight will be well over the rated tongue weight of the truck. Even an 8000# trailer is probably going to be over the rated tongue capacity. I'm not so sure about axle rating, I think the late model 1/2 tons are a lot better than older models, which would explain the higher payload numbers. I never looked at my axle rating because I'm so far away from the other maximum numbers, and we don't really carry anything except bikes occasionally.

Campfire Time wrote:

Realistically, the "1000# rule" is a reasonable place to start. For best towing experience your loaded trailer should weigh no more than 1000# less than your rated towing capacity.

I have never heard of that "rule". The "20% rule" is more common but that is not a rule either. Towing a 9600 pound loaded RV with a family onboard will put 99% of half tons on the market over GVWR and rear axle ratings. That is to say that tow rating and GCWR are almost worthless for these 8k+ tow rated half tons.

The other details are good, RPO codes for the more capable equipment for example.

Your towing capacity is 10,600# only with the 6.0L or 6.2L w/3:73 gears and the Max Trailering Pkg. If you only have the 4.8 l w/3:23 gears, your TC is only 4700#. There were lots of configurations available on the 1/2 ton GM trucks. Payload is only part of the equation. Its dependent on how many passengers you have and how much stuff you haul in the truck. Yous may be similar to mine, just over 1600#. That said, we need more information, more important you need to know how your truck is equipped. Without that info this is just guesswork and that could be dangerous.

Check your owners manual for the towing chart. Yours is on page 4-54. Note that it also lists the GCWR, which is the max total your truck, trailer, people, and "stuff" can weigh. Page 4-62 give your max tongue weight, 1000# with a WD hitch.

2009 Silverado Owners Manual

To cross reference things you also need to know your RPO codes. They are on a sticker in your glove box.

K5L = HD Cooling Pkg
NHT = Max Trailering Pkg
GU5 = 3.23 gears
GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73

GM RPO Codes

Realistically, the "1000# rule" is a reasonable place to start. For best towing experience your loaded trailer should weigh no more than 1000# less than your rated towing capacity. Once you find a trailer that is within that range, you can do more detailed number crunching to make sure you are within safe towing ranges. That is GCWR, payload, tongue weight, etc. I've towed well below my rated capacity with several tow vehicles, and I've towed at close to capacity with 2 of those same vehicles. Of course pushing it is doable, but there are limitations. Its far nicer to tow when you have reserve capacity.