Steer tires

Picinisco wrote:

intheburbs wrote:
Something like the Hensley Arrow would make a significant improvement, versus a simple friction sway brake.

Yes but at $2500 That would be 40% of what I paid for the trailer.

If you're running through the friction sway control, IMO don't mask the problem with a more expensive hitch, figure out the weight issue.
typically trailer sway without an adverse condition causing it momentarily is too light of tongue weight. As well, even with decent tongue weight, a big concentration of weight at the very rear of the trailer will have a pendulum affect, but only if something else induces the sway first.
Last, grossly overloaded tongue weight can have the same effect as too light, but not becasue the trailer is swaying per se, but that it's manhandling the tow rig too much.

You have a little SUV, put 4 of the same tires on it, have the right pressures and steer tires will not be even a small % of the issue youre trying to correct.

Picinisco wrote:

intheburbs wrote:
Something like the Hensley Arrow would make a significant improvement, versus a simple friction sway brake.

Yes but at $2500 That would be 40% of what I paid for the trailer.

Look for a used one. There are lots of them out there - Usually priced around $1000 or less.
Phoenix Craigslist
Barney

intheburbs wrote:
Something like the Hensley Arrow would make a significant improvement, versus a simple friction sway brake.

Yes but at $2500 That would be 40% of what I paid for the trailer.

You can always air up your tires, to stiffen things up a bit. On my half-ton Burb, I ran E-load tires and ran them at 40 front/50 rear, and that made quite an improvement.

A light trailer is going to be more susceptible to sway and push/pull with the semis. You're towing a big, light sail. Something like the Hensley Arrow would make a significant improvement, versus a simple friction sway brake. My first trailer was a 5000-lb 28-footer. It was very prone to sway and push/pull. One time towing with crosswinds, I had the friction brake cranked down so hard that I bent the plate where the sway ball was attached. That's 1/4" steel.

Your short-wheelbase tow vehicle exacerbates the problem. A Suburban would also contribute to more stability.

I have messed with the WD for some time, adjusting the ball angle up and down. The latest angle now allows me to get the WD chains to the next link so may make a difference. I may just be anal. Just feels a little light on the steering but not dangerously light. Mostly felt when being passed by an 18 wheeler. The tires are not new but just wondered if the tread could be adding to the issue. They are Goodyear Wrangler Trailmarks.

The aggressive mudder tires and any thing close will cause your truck to wander whether you are towing or not. I know this from my suburban with aggressive tires which were basically only good off road. If it handles like a charm without towing, then it could be your towing set-up.
Brian

Picinisco wrote:

No sway when NOT towing.

Would moving weight back not be more advantageous by taking weight off the steering tires.

Brand new tires with the new rubber compounds can create an instability. After 1,000 to 2,000 miles this often goes away. I am on my 3rd set of Continental Contrac TR's , new this July and they did create a shift in truck stability even on heavy LT tires. However this effect goes away once broke in. I did not have this issue on the last set, 6 years ago, only this set. Same tire, same truck and camper, just it reared it ugly head this time.

If you are having instability issues on the front of your Tahoe, and you are not on brand new tires, I would first suspect tire sidewall flex not so much the tread pattern. Soft side walls are a classic for creating towing instability. Airing up the tire to max sidewall pressure cold might shift it to being better as they are then stiffer. If the truck literally bounces left or right when you hit a bump when towing, then air down 5 psi from max and try again. Do not go below door sticker pressures. You can air down the tires again to normal when not towing. A pain yes, but it is cheaper then new tires if it helps the problem. Air pressure in the rear tires is also part of this as well for the same problem.

Taking weight off the front of the truck axle needs a lot more info about your camper, hitch and trailer if that will help any. Normally that is not a problem as long as the tire itself is up to the task and not overloaded. The weight distribution on the truck from your WD hitch has to be correct. If that is not correct then the whole truck can start bobbing up and down creating issues.

Hope this helps

John

PS. Are you having stability issues? and if so what lead you to think it was the tread pattern? We need more info to help the underlying issue.

bluie5 wrote:
New tires can also cause sway and handling problems when towing. I had a sway problem with my Ford pulling our TT the first time or two.

No sway when NOT towing.

Would moving weight back not be more advantageous by taking weight off the steering tires.

BF Goodrich All Terrain T/As work great for me on the highway, no tracking issues.

If you have trailer sway, the most likely cause is insufficient tongue weight. As already mentioned, moving stuff forward can help. With a rear kitchen unit, it is easy to end up with too much weight behind the axles, which will unload the tongue.

GY Wrangler All Terrain