Forum Discussion
BenK
Feb 25, 2018Explorer
You can NOT adjust the GM brake pedal light switch. It is not adjustable and is designed that way
Here is how the P2/P3 works, IIRC
Boost is the preset level that the P2/P3 will 'start' at when told to turn on the trailer brakes. Voltage level sent to the trailer harness
Mine does NOT jerk. Normally preset boost at around 2.
Smooth and can feel the trailer lead the TV in braking...until press the TV brake pedal more to get the TV to brake harder...then can feel my TV slow faster than the trailer (depends which trailer am towing)
Rarely ever need to go into more pedal pressure and the trailer and TV brakes to a stop smoothly...as one
An E-Brake will have the trailer NOT be able to brake as well, so the slop in the ball/coupler will have the ball hit the latch, but that is fractions of an inch, so I can not feel that
Once the P2/P3 is turned on, it goes to the preset boost level and then uses the accelerometer as the input as to any further increases in braking voltage sent to the trailer
Similar to using the manual lever. Manual lever goes to full voltage when the lever is all the way over to the stop. Similar but only goes to preset boost when the brake switch is turned on
Why I think that is the most likely scenario on why/how the trailer and setup corrected itself...like tossing a boat anchor out the trailer rear window...that then pulls everything into alignment.
Some times, if have presence of mind, give it a bit of throttle to pull while that boat anchor drags...gets into alignment faster
{edit}...maybe your trailer brakes are not adjusted tight enough if you have jerking while braking. Assume you have drum/shoe and if not adjusted 'tight', the attack angle will be higher...the shoes will grab more aggressively
Here is how the P2/P3 works, IIRC
Boost is the preset level that the P2/P3 will 'start' at when told to turn on the trailer brakes. Voltage level sent to the trailer harness
Mine does NOT jerk. Normally preset boost at around 2.
Smooth and can feel the trailer lead the TV in braking...until press the TV brake pedal more to get the TV to brake harder...then can feel my TV slow faster than the trailer (depends which trailer am towing)
Rarely ever need to go into more pedal pressure and the trailer and TV brakes to a stop smoothly...as one
An E-Brake will have the trailer NOT be able to brake as well, so the slop in the ball/coupler will have the ball hit the latch, but that is fractions of an inch, so I can not feel that
Once the P2/P3 is turned on, it goes to the preset boost level and then uses the accelerometer as the input as to any further increases in braking voltage sent to the trailer
Similar to using the manual lever. Manual lever goes to full voltage when the lever is all the way over to the stop. Similar but only goes to preset boost when the brake switch is turned on
Why I think that is the most likely scenario on why/how the trailer and setup corrected itself...like tossing a boat anchor out the trailer rear window...that then pulls everything into alignment.
Some times, if have presence of mind, give it a bit of throttle to pull while that boat anchor drags...gets into alignment faster
{edit}...maybe your trailer brakes are not adjusted tight enough if you have jerking while braking. Assume you have drum/shoe and if not adjusted 'tight', the attack angle will be higher...the shoes will grab more aggressively
4bamayoungs wrote:BenK wrote:
But...if he kept his foot on the pedal all the while this was happening (maybe unconsciously...reflexively)...it could explain the why of this
All why IMHO, think is what happened during the OP's event experience
I would have to say that me moving my foot to the brake and inadvertently applying enough pressure to activate the brake light is plausible. I usually don’t set the brake controller to lead Ike that, though. The trailer brakes grabbing before the TV brakes bothers me. Could it be that I activated the brake lights and the P2 detected the momentum shift of a sway and interpreted it as deceleration?
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