Sway control?

mowermech wrote:
IMO, a properly built, properly loaded trailer will NOT sway. If it does, there is a problem. Find the problem, and FIX IT

In my experience a properly loaded trailer can still have sway caused by other issues. Such as a semi rig passing or during high wind gusts.

In the case of a semi rig you'll get the familiar push, pull effect. As the Semi moves by it first pushes against the trailer, causing the tow vehicle to seem to be pulled towards the semi. Then as the semi moves past it's not pushing on the tow vehicle and the opposite effect is felt. I have found that sway control dampens most of that effect with ease. Also takes out much of the effects of high gusts buffeting the trailer.

WD isn't needed with a very small light trailer and a somewhat larger tow vehicle. I feel its ALWAYS needed with a mid sized to large trailer and almost any tow vehicle. Otherwise the front of the tow vehicle becomes lighter on the tires greatly effecting handling. A WD hitch IS proper setup! Will also greatly improve sway.

Some people pull anything without one, as was stated above. I have only been able to pull trailers for the last 40 years or so. When I started, we pulled with a car. It had a much lower center of gravity, a much wider stance and was heavy. We pulled along US highways, probably 50-60 mph. Only remember the occasional sway. Then came Interstates and pickup trucks. Now we tow faster with a longer trailer. I use two friction bars on mine. Not only is it a better tow when everything is calm, but who hasn't been passed by an 80mph truck or bus? The occasional surprise side wind? The little thunder storm that seems to come from nowhere packing 40mph gusts? Even when you have to make an emergency dodge the debris on the highway move, the trailer will behave much better. I don't tow without them.

I used a Reese hitch WD (chains style) for years and had a friction sway bar. Yes, you do have to drill holes in the frame. Never had a sway problem that I'm aware of and towed with it on and without it. I did notice a difference on interstate driving, especially when big-rig trucks pass.

Now, I've got the Equal-i-zer WD hitch system. It's suppose to have built-in sway control. Either I have no sway or it's working, because to date, I've not had any sway.

I would not tow without a properly equipped sway control. I even use when towing
my cargo trailer

In the 54 years I have been driving, I have towed many different types and sizes of trailers, using many different tow vehicles. I have never used a sway control gimmick. In fact, for many of those years, they had not been invented!
I used a WD hitch for one and only one tow vehicle, towing a 19 foot TT. That Jeep Wagoneer HAD to have a WD to keep the back bumper off the ground!
IMO, a properly built, properly loaded trailer will NOT sway. If it does, there is a problem. Find the problem, and FIX IT, and THEN if a sway control will help you sleep better, get one and use it. BUT, a sway control should NEVER be used to solve an existing sway problem. It will MASK the problem, but it will NOT CURE it!
I had one homemade flatbed trailer that had a sway problem. No matter how it was loaded, it would sway, usually when going down hill. It was NOT built properly! Nothing could be done to stop it from swaying. Sway controls were not available at the time. I sold it with the clear understanding that at the very least the axles had to be relocated before it was safe to use.

A tire with a strong sidewall with help greatly.

There is a thing called wind, side winds. Sway bars help when you encounter them. I balance my load and can pull without it but like most are saying insurance and when you hit those unexpected winds.

Blue Ox Sway Pro are effective, plus they are simple, clean, and quiet. No drilling necessary.

Easiest hitch for us has been the Equalizer hitch. It's a WDH with built in sway control. No separate parts to install or adjust.

Cheapest would be a bolt on friction bar. They work well, are cheap but are separate from the hitch itself. Many require removal when backing up.

Most expensive would be a Hensley or similar type hitch. They move the pivot point forward to the axle which reduces sway similar to how a fifth wheel trailer tows. Rather expensive but they're the best available.

old guy wrote:
I think the chances of a person getting lucky enough to load properly are one in a million.

It's really really easy to load it properly, and not uncommon at all. Not quite sure why you think it's so hard.

10-15% of the weight on the tongue is a big range, on my trailer that's a range from 800-1200 on an average trip. If I can't load it in that 400lb window I am doing something wrong.