swaying

TXiceman wrote:
A sway control device is worth it's weight in gold when you need it.

Exactly!!

Fix the issue, then make sure your sway control is properly functioning.

AH64ID is correct in that the Hensley is a band-aid and an expensive one to boot. A properly loaded trailer, properly set up WD hitch, tires aired correctly and a properly sized tow vehicle a trailer will not sway under normal conditions. But Mr. Murphy is always on the look out for an opportunity to cause problems. You catch a truck bow wake at the right moment or a cross wind over a bridge and it will start a sway that you may not be able to recover from unless you have a sway control device.

A sway control device is worth it's weight in gold when you need it.

But the Hensley will only mask the problem which you need to correct. There have been many suggestions to check your weight, hitch set up, tires, etc. Even with all of this set up correctly, you are pushing your little truck towards it upper limits.

If you were close enough, I'd be more than happy to try and help you on this issue. Do you happen to be close to Monroe, LA?

Ken

OP, your explanation of the sway points to too little tongue weight.

ReneeG wrote:

jayco302fk wrote:
One word, HENSLEY!

I agree with you. A Hensley is not considered a band aid but a solution.

It's a band-aid. If it stops a trailer that sways constantly without a Hensley then something is wrong, generally the trailer is improperly loaded.

A band-aid is something that masks the issue, but never corrects the problem. If the loading isn't fixed then it's a band-aid fix.

I don't disagree that having to carefully load the trailer each trip is ideal, but ending up with the proper setup takes care.

Properly loaded TT's, without suspension/axle issues, will not sway. Sway control should be there for irregular adverse conditions, not needed every inch of every mile.

Welcome to this portal !

First...I do NOT advise 'sure you can', 'no you can not', but provide
the metrics to make up our own mind using the HOW2's below

Second, suggest you go out and actually weigh your setup both empty
and fully loaded...axle by axle. That is the only way to know where
you are in reference to your TV's specifications

Then plug in your weights into the diagram below and then reference
your TV's specifications.

On specifications, limits, ratings, etc provided by your TV's OEM...
first decide if you believe in them or not.

If not, the do whatever and know that you have taken the OEM's off the
warranty hook and liability hook

If yes, then read up and learn the metrics HOW2 figure it out. Get
many datum's, as I don't follow every bit of advice I'll get on these
freebie forums/portals

There is a recent thread from another newbie who has gotten several
points of advice on HOW2 change the various adjustments (dials and knobs)
without understanding and knowing what the goal is

Back on specifications, limits, ratings from your OEM...they are for
safety, longevity and liability for the whole setup. Designed for the
worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path. Normally only
happens to the other guy, but it might your day, that day...

Manhandling the whole setup during that worst day. Either you have it
spot on, or not. No time to go back to the store for bigger/better/etc
or re-setup.

The ultimate goal is to setup the whole thing so that the TV is oriented
as the OEM says. Some say even drop, some say return the front height
to within 1/2" of an empty TV, etc, etc

Trailer tongue should be level at it's highest pointing...to pointing
slightly down. Pointing higher than level has greater chances of the
trailer behaving badly...it will not follow as well

I've finally towed with an HA and say it's okay, but did NOT solve
that church members main issue...a half ton towing too long and too
heavy a trailer. It did snub most of the potential sway, but it felt
like it was always 'trying' to sway. You'll understand after a few
thousand miles

His 'half ton' is the small one...of the three classes withing the
half ton class. His was +6K GVWR. Next is the +7K GVWR and what I call
the fake half ton...+8K GVWR

Yes, the trailer salesman told him that his TV could easily tow it
and is also rated for it...

Here is the quote from that thread and the diagram showing you how
the whole system looks like in graphical form and that the 'ratings'
are not absolute...meaning that they are factored by other ratings...

Nervous Nelly Newbie

BenK wrote:
Welcome to the Portal!!!

So much depends...and you have lots to read up on. This portal (rv.net,
woodalls.com, etc) is a good one...but learn to listen to the advice
that sounds good to you AND decide if you believe in the specializations,
ratings system, etc

If not, then do whatever you wish, but know that doing that will
relieve the OEMs from the hook (warranty and liability)

If yes, then read and learn HOW2 on sizing to your TV's ratings, the
brake controller, and tons of ETC...a bit academic since you have
already purchased the setup, but important for you to proceed. Suggest
still gathering the specifications for both your TV and Trailer and
going out to actually weigh the whole setup (fully loaded and empty)

Depends...because the WD spring bars (if you have them) and the amount
of weight transferred (WD'd...weight distributed) needs to be in the
correct 'range'

The orientation of the trailers tongue should be level at it's highest
pointing, to slightly down...when the WD adjustments are in the correct
range

Yours is a very, very common question and here is a good stating
point for you:

New member with some confusion

BenK wrote:
Welcome to the portal !

First note that I do NOT say no you can't, nor sure you can...because
there is only one person responsible for the setup...the driver and
that might not be the OP, but their partner or whomever is driving

So provide the metrics on HOW2...

There are many oblique thoughts and beliefs on the ratings system. From
what is 'dry' to what is 'curb' to what is the actual 'payload/cargo', etc

Second, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

If not, then do whatever, but know that you have taken the OEM off both
the warranty and liability hook

If yes, then read up and learn HOW2 figure it out

Simple math, but requires actual weights and why some have suggested
going out and actually weighing your setup (TV & trailer) axle by axle

Below is how the ratings system looks like in graphical form and another
note: folks take one of those ratings out of context. Either without
regard to the interdependence's of other ratings as either prerequisites
or as an absolute

It is 'system' and everything plays together in a give and take way
Meaning that if you wish to take the MTWR (max tow weight rating)...then
you have to give up loading up the TV to it's GVWR and reduce the
TV's weight


This guy didn't have any problems towing, other than he 'thinks' the
orientation is not right...the advisers has him buying parts and
changing the various adjustments (knobs) without knowing the goal



howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow

Another guess here. Going to the scales is a definate first step. It sounds to me like an over loaded truck. Do all the free stuff first. Another problem is over stressed tires. I pull one similar to yours and if I don't air the tires to max (80) it feels squishy and squirrelly and that's with a 3/4 ton. I also bumped the trailer tires to E rated and the whole thing feels more stable. For a cheaper experiment maybe you could upgrade rear tires on the truck. Good luck.

thanks, I'm getting some good feedback on this issue. tires on the 2010 ford lariat are c range lt275/65r18 at max. 50 psi cold with 30,000 miles. we purchased the tt 2014 salem hemisphere lite 282 rk new with the same wdh reese 10,000 lb, 1,000 tongue weight and ez anti sway bar that we used on our previous tt 1993 jayco eagle 300 fk. thanks

APT wrote:
Far too many assumptions and speculation and other people spending your $$$. $15 for 3 passes at a CAT scale will provide the actual tongue weight and where you stand with respect to all your truck's ratings. Then decide what should be done next.

Do the scale weights with truck and trailer loaded for camping. Depending on location of fresh water tank, your tongue weight can change considerably. My tank is behind the axles, and, my tongue weight can vary up to 200 lbs.

There are several things that can cause or contribute to trailer sway. Your problem could be any one, or a combination of them. Some, you can do nothing about. Most common causes:

1. Trailer is too lite on the tongue
Tongue weight should be 10 - 15% of loaded trailer weight.

2. Hitch not set up correctly
If hitch is not restoring enough weight to front axles of the truck, subconscious movement on steering wheel, oversteering, cross winds, or subtle changes in road surface, can cause sway. If hitch ball is set too high, trailer tows nose up and you have similar situation to lite tongue weight.

3. Unbalanced loading

4. Overloading or soft suspension
If you are close or over your payload, you could have tire sidewall flex or body roll on tow vehicle. Compare loaded weights to payload / GVWR of tow vehicle.

5. Unbalanced or low tire pressure (either truck or trailer)

6. Insufficient sway control
At 35 feet (a lot of sail), a single friction bar may not be enough. An 8000 lb trailer is going to win tug-of-war, with a 6000 lb truck.

7. Strong cross winds.

8. Bad roads.

9. Trailer axles out of alignment.

10. Bad trailer tires.


Scale weights and measurements will tell the story about hitch set up and loaded weights. Measure trailer coupler height (with trailer level) and hitch ball height (with truck level). They should be close to equal as possible. Measure unhitched height of front fender well. With WD, hitched fender well height should be within 1/2 inch of unhitched height.

From reading the OP's posts, and the replies, I have to agree, not enough tongue weight.
A properly built, properly loaded trailer should not sway. If it does, there is a problem with the trailer. Find out what the problem is, fix it, and THEN, if you feel a super duper fancy high-tech hitch or sway control is necessary, use it. But, please, don't rely on that hitch to actually FIX the problem. It won't. Oh, yes, it may cover the problem nicely, giving you a false sense of security, but it will not FIX anything!
Remember, you want the tongue weight to be 10 to 15% of the total weight of the trailer. The heavier (and larger) the trailer, the closer you need to be to 15%, IMO.
I see 30 to 35 foot enclosed cargo trailers a lot around here. I have yet to see one with a WD hitch or sway control. Yet, they have no sway, even at freeway speeds. I wonder why? Maybe it is because they are built with the axles about 2/3 of the way back, and they are loaded tongue heavy.
To the OP, take your rig to the scales, weigh it, and load the trailer so that you have 13 to 15% of the gross weight on the tongue, and I think your sway problem will go away.

Without being able to state the exact scientific reason, ratios, and causes of sway, I know for a fact that the longer the trailer in comparison to the tow vehicle and weight difference between the two, will cause sway and it's not the amount of weight as a result of what's loaded in a rear kitchen. All our TT's had rear kitchens and we never experienced sway till we got a longer trailer. Could be the weight distribution in comparison to the overall weight, but we solved it by buying a Hensley. So whether it's a Hensley or cousin Pro Pride, it's a hitch that will solve your problem. These type of hitches address the cross winds issue, and sway caused by oncoming semi trucks or passing semi trucks. No more white knuckles. Period.

APT wrote:
Far too many assumptions and speculation and other people spending your $$$. $15 for 3 passes at a CAT scale will provide the actual tongue weight and where you stand with respect to all your truck's ratings. Then decide what should be done next.

I agree, this could be many things, and if I had to guess, it is a lack of tongue weight. The only way to know for sure is to hit the scales. Kind of a pain, but worth it. It is easier to work with facts than speculation.