This or this....and why?

427435 wrote:

teddyu wrote:
I use a rigid A-frame tow bar. Had an Aluminator and had problems. IMHO, the last thing I want is another part that could fail, especially when towing 3100 lbs. Having experienced a failure and reading the forums describing all the lost parts, broken arms, and additional maintenance required for the these types of tow bars is not worth the "convience." JM2¢...

Some of the extendable towbars do look pretty light. However, take a look at the Ready Brute. It is rated for 8000 lbs and will last a long time pulling a 3100 lb toad. We've pulled our 5000 lb Explorer over 35,000 miles (including a trip to Alaska) and it is still doing fine.

You failed to mention that it comes with a full lifetime guarantee, so NSA must have some faith in it and I for one haven't heard of any failures as yet. Just returned from a 7K + mile trip and must have connected and disconnected 80 times out of more than 100 days on the road and can't imagine wrestling one of those big fixed triangle bars. What do you do with it when not in use? Throw it on the ground and certainly not leaving it fixed and standing in the air on the front of a newer toad. IMO, it's basically junk by comparison to the modern tow bars, no matter what the brand. Hey, to each his own, I guess and there's probably some black and white analog TV's still out there that are considered to be better than a new LED flat screen, HD receiver and all, whaddaya think.... :R

Bobbo wrote:

txhandgunner wrote:
What I'm really getting at is this: in your opinions, does the ease of connecting/disconnecting really justify the additional costs of two otherwise equal mechanisms of connecting a dingy to my MH?

Yes

txhandgunner wrote:
I've used a tow-dolly before and I cannot see the Reese version being any more complicated than that....

Yes, it is.

txhandgunner wrote:
Maybe it's just me....?

It's your money, it's your decision.

The bottom line is, it is purely PERSONAL OPINION!
IMO, the answer to the first question is a resounding NO! That extra $500 to $700 is VERY important to me!
IMO, the answer to the second question is also NO! I tow my PT Cruiser convertible on a dolly, and the I find that the Reese towbar is actually somewhat simpler than putting the PT on the dolly and securing it.
IMO, the answer to the third question is very definitely "your money, your decision".
Choose the best for YOU. I chose what is best for ME, and I have been very happy with my choices!

I use the Ready Brute system and I got it for the simple builtin towd brake. If it wasn't for the brake, I think a good A frame would be fine. BTW, the RB may have parts made of alum. But its not exactly light.

I spent 30+ years hitching a travel trailer to a truck and it was no big deal. An A frame tow bar would be even easier.

In another life, I had a Burro like dune bug and it had an A frame mounted on the front. One guy could drag the buggy to the hitch, hook up the safety cables and hang a light bar on the back.

My 2 cents

Norm

F1bNorm wrote:


I spent 30+ years hitching a travel trailer to a truck and it was no big deal. An A frame tow bar would be even easier.

Norm

I believe that it is much easier to push the front of my small single axle TT over slightly to meet up with the ball than trying to push a 2 axle automobile/toad which can't be pushed sideways.
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:

F1bNorm wrote:


I spent 30+ years hitching a travel trailer to a truck and it was no big deal. An A frame tow bar would be even easier.

Norm

I believe that it is much easier to push the front of my small single axle TT over slightly to meet up with the ball than trying to push a 2 axle automobile/toad which can't be pushed sideways.
bumpy

I'm still trying to imagine and figure out how you get the ball socket lined up on the ball and especially if you're alone. I do have a couple of magnetic colored line up poles that would certainly help. Anyway, not one of my selections for saving money in my old age.

tropical36 wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

F1bNorm wrote:


I spent 30+ years hitching a travel trailer to a truck and it was no big deal. An A frame tow bar would be even easier.

Norm

I believe that it is much easier to push the front of my small single axle TT over slightly to meet up with the ball than trying to push a 2 axle automobile/toad which can't be pushed sideways.
bumpy

I'm still trying to imagine and figure out how you get the ball socket lined up on the ball and especially if you're alone. I do have a couple of magnetic colored line up poles that would certainly help. Anyway, not one of my selections for saving money in my old age.

I use the harbor freight yellow balls on a magnetic based stick to line er up. like I say, it gets close enough so that small side to side adjustments can be made as I have a light single axle trailer.
my main point is that it is impossible to shove a fixed V tow bar sideways on a 4 wheel car. my first tow bar was a "rangefinder" that did have some slide to the side ability to adjust it.

bumpy

Sorry, Bumpy, I just don't understand the problem. Using the GOAL (Get Out And Look) method, I never have to attempt to "push" my Jeep over to get the hitch in alignment with the ball. In fact, just turning the front wheels will often move the hitch enough to adjust the side-to-side alignment so it will drop right on.
I, too, have a set of the magnetic sticks, but I never use them. With practice, I can often get properly aligned in two tries.
IMO, all the complaints about the fixed arm towbars can be laid at the feet of ONE person: The complainer.

X2

The photo is from 2007 when I was still using the Reese fixed a-frame to hook up my car.
As you can see, the hitch (ball socket) was not easy to see from the driver's seat. Also there was no way to support the hitch in a horizontal positiion at the correct height, while trying to hook up alone. The 'get out and look" method doesn't work since the socket of the a frame must be higher than the hitch ball and there is no way to hold it up while also driving the car. I tried cords and chains but the angle back to the car was too shallow to support the weight.



I hope this helps explain the difficulty in hooking up an a-frame towbar.

admiral0647 wrote:
The photo is from 2007 when I was still using the Reese fixed a-frame to hook up my car.
As you can see, the hitch (ball socket) was not easy to see from the driver's seat. Also there was no way to support the hitch in a horizontal positiion at the correct height, while trying to hook up alone. The 'get out and look" method doesn't work since the socket of the a frame must be higher than the hitch ball and there is no way to hold it up while also driving the car. I tried cords and chains but the angle back to the car was too shallow to support the weight.



I hope this helps explain the difficulty in hooking up an a-frame towbar.

Two thoughts:
I would get a box or step to set the A frame on. You need a box anyway to store the safety cables, cord, bits and pieces, right?

Your towd is small enough, get close and pull or push it by hand (make sure you're on level ground). I do this with my CRV, no problem.

Norm