Tow bar lubrication

Wouldn't it be best to just release the latch on the ball and pop the tow bar off the ball if that is the design a person has?

exactly what was he hammering on? I occasionally had to use a hammer/punch pin to get my pins out of the brackets. if it had slip rings I can see having to hammer those which is why I went to levers to release it. I have had to give the levers a good kick now and then. but nothing relating to oiling/lubricating/areas etc.
bumpy

Maintenance is a major part of a tow bar. Of course, the "right" lubrication is also important.

Maybe someone needs to suggest: Chock the tires on toad, or put in gear (if auto) or pull emerg brake if manual AND release tension on tow bar before trying to unhook? Sometimes just turning the steering wheel a little to the right or left will help. I find that having the toad lined up straight behind the motorhome and on most level surface helps a LOT.

Gee, ask me how I know all this? Some kind camper helped me out.

mowermech wrote:
I would never use oil of any kind on parts that live in a climate of dust and grit. Oil gets sticky and collects dirt.
I use a dry silicone spray (as recommended by the manufacturer) on my Roadmaster stainless steel towbar. When (not if) it sticks, I just use it exactly the way I used my old fixed arm towbar. Once it is disconnected, it releases and folds just the way it is designed to do.
No hammer, no problem.

EXACTLY...... Oils will do more harm than good.

I would never use oil of any kind on parts that live in a climate of dust and grit. Oil gets sticky and collects dirt.
I use a dry silicone spray (as recommended by the manufacturer) on my Roadmaster stainless steel towbar. When (not if) it sticks, I just use it exactly the way I used my old fixed arm towbar. Once it is disconnected, it releases and folds just the way it is designed to do.
No hammer, no problem.