Hey everyone,I have a few posts on full time RVing with my wife and now we are looking for our truck. I need some information though on weight distribution.The RV we're looking at is the Freedom Express 248 RBS, which has a shipping weight of 5000 lb, carrying capacity of 2200 lbs, and hitch weight of 705 lbs. The truck I am currently looking at is the 2001 GMC Sierra 1500, which has a dealer installed tow package. The towing capacity says that it is between 7300 lbs and 8300 lbs, I assume with the tow package it's more towards the 8300.The hitch on the truck has two sets of capacities, one for a weight distribution system and one for a weight carry. The weight carry is 6000 lbs with a 600 lb tongue weight but the weight distribution limit is 12000 lbs and 1000 lbs tongue weight. I know the truck is the limiting factor, and I'm not looking to haul 12000 lbs but I want to see if you guys think this set-up will work.We are full timing in one park for several years, so it won't move the trailer long distances all the time. I'm military though so I need it to be capable of driving across the country with this trailer. We do plan to go camping with this lets say 12 times a year, driving no more that 6 hours each way. What do you think? Does this set-up sound like a reasonable one provided I install a weight distribution receiver?

you will be hearing many ideas. likeyes you can pull it, but can you stop it.I have a 2009 1/2 GMC and have been pulling my 24 TT at 7200lbs all over CA and OR.will lose ground going up hills, but just take my time.Now lets look at the most important issue. cargo capacity. my GVWR is about 6800 lbs. cargo capacity is about 1450. hitch weight was right at 900-1000 about 15%. I had to go high to stop sway.add passengers and any cargo in truck bed, incl camper shell, kayaks,, generator etc. I think you will be over limit. I now have a Ram 3500, and it is more than just a little difference, it is great. But my DW had us get a 28ft 5th wheel. I was just uncomfortable being at the limit or over a little bit it did work.putting that weight on I did go to better tires

It is your payload capacity that is likely to be the first thing you bump up against. for instance a Tundra is a fine half ton truck, it's towing capacity is 10K, but it's payload is only 1500 pounds. You'll never be pulling 10K without going over your payload. Everything in the cab or bed except a 150 pound driver has to fit in that payload and it has to include whatever hitch weight is involved, including the weight of your hitch and any weight distribution or anti-sway equipemnt.

Hi,You are looking for a crewcab, but plan on towing about 7,500 pounds, so it really does not make sense.Do you realize that the pickup can only tow the maximum weight WHILE only the driver is on board? No coolers, no bikes, extra passengers, anything.I would suggest a 3/4 ton truck, and that will carry 600 pounds of passengers, 1,200 pounds of hitch weight, the 200 pound WD hitch, and anything else you might want to carry, without reaching the GVWR and going over it. It will get slightly less MPG than a lighter weight pickup, but can carry all the weight that you need to. But don't just take any pickup from the lot. Make sure that it has enough GVWR for your loads, and passengers, and whatever else will be in the truck. Don't spec the lowest rear axle ratio either, you will not significantly load up the 3/4 ton truck, and can work well with a 3.73:1 rear axle ratio, or even a 3.54:1 ratio. 4.10:1 is not a 'requirement' for towing these days. Modern fuel injection can run at 2,000 RPM and still tow great- especially if you are running 91 octane gas.Check the glovebox. See if it will have plenty of cargo rating - because you will have up to about 1,000 pounds of hitch weight, 200 pound hitch and the bars, ect. and whatever coolers, passengers and such as will be in the truck.. . .Get a towing guide for Ford and GM and Dodge. Make sure that it will carry the load you plan to put on it.. . .Good luck,Fred.

I wouldn't assume the tow weight is on the upper end because of the tow package. Is this truck 4wd, crew cab, lots of options? These all reduce tow capacity and payload. Th 8,300 number is probably a base truck with no options, 2wd, and regular cab.Really, don't assume any numbers but use a scale.If you pack really light and don't put much in the truck then you can probably make that combo work.If you're buying a truck anyway there's no reason not to get a 2500 series.

Welcome to the forum !First, decide if you believe in the ratings system or notIf not, then do whatever...but know that you have taken the OEM(s) off both thewarranty hook (if ant left) and liability hookIf yes, then learn how that system works and make the risk decisions we all makeAKA...gambling that you made the correct 'for you' decision(s)Post your TV's ratings and will also help you gather the info to make decisionsTV's:GVWRRGAWRGCWRTrailers:GVWRDryTongue (it will be based on the dry weight)Then go out and weigh your TV both empty, but best loaded ready as if going RV'ing. Axle by axleIf not going to weigh it, then use their max ratings, GVWR's. Thenknow that it will be a guesstimation and in need of a fudge factorThe generic formula to figure is: GCWR >= TV + trailer + cargo/people/pets/etc

Tow Vehicles and Hitches | Good Sam Community

19 Replies

BenK
Explorer
Nov 24, 2015
wiiman3893 wrote:
But isn't the payload dealing with a different set of forces based on the truck's 2 axles? My understanding is that the payload would be affected by the tongue weight, which does apply that force to the truck's axles. I know that the vehicle weight is labelled much lower than it typically is as it is the weight with an empty gas tank, so is it related to towing capacity? By which I mean the actual amount the vehicle can tow, not what the dealer says or anything.

Maybe a different analogy using your own body...

The Backpack is the 'cargo' or 'payload' with the trailer tongue hooked
up to your belt buckle...that is the weight stuff...TV (your body)
GVWR, front/rear GAWR (your feet)

Now the tow rating is what the above can pull via your belt buckle...

The GCWR is all of them both together as the rating your body is rated for

The OEMs used a butt naked person with no optional clothing (shoes,
pants, shorts, shirt, t-shirt, gloves, socks, etc, etc) except for
the towing option...the belt and it's buckle

But most folks has optional stuff. Pants, shoes, socks, shorts, shirt,
t-shirt, gloves, Swiss Army knife, key chain, wallet, handkerchief,
coins, lip balm, cell phone, extra cell battery, armored cell phone
case, wrist watch, cell ear piece, gold chain necklaces, wedding
ring, and a big ETC

All of those 'options' takes away from the cargo/payload rating of
stuff in the back pack...oh...the weight of that backpack counts too

So unless your TV is going to be a butt naked truck...does it have
the MTWR (max tow weight rating)
wiiman3893
Explorer
Nov 24, 2015
But isn't the payload dealing with a different set of forces based on the truck's 2 axles? My understanding is that the payload would be affected by the tongue weight, which does apply that force to the truck's axles. I know that the vehicle weight is labelled much lower than it typically is as it is the weight with an empty gas tank, so is it related to towing capacity? By which I mean the actual amount the vehicle can tow, not what the dealer says or anything.
bikendan
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
wiiman3893 wrote:
Well, I'm basing that 8800 lbs off of the dodge towing chart for that cab, engine, and transmission. It's not the max capacity of all 2500s that year.

I would not buy any tow vehicle, until I had the door sticker payload capacity.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Nov 23, 2015
I had a 1999 Dodge(Ram)2500 with the 5.9 gas engine, purchased new, and used to tow my previous trailer, a 7500lb Sunnybrook 26cks. It towed that trailer just fine and went about 140,000 miles before I sold it to a friend who used it for another 6 years before trading it in on something else.

I averaged around 9.5-10mpg towing during that time and also about 14-15 non towing. It had plenty of power and never failed to start or run smoothly. I really liked that truck and would have purchased another but a great deal on my present 7.3L PSD came along and I took it. Have no regrets doing that either! :)

You can see both the truck and the trailer in one of the pictures in my webpage photos linked in my signature.
Barney
mkirsch
Nomad II
Nov 23, 2015
wiiman3893 wrote:
Well, I'm basing that 8800 lbs off of the dodge towing chart for that cab, engine, and transmission. It's not the max capacity of all 2500s that year.

That's a much better number than the sales brochure, but even so that truck still can't tow that much and remain within the ratings. More importantly you probably would not be happy with the performance towing that much.

Lucky for you, you won't be towing that much! If you keep the trailer around the ~7000lb mark, you should be reasonably happy with that combination. It won't be the fastest machine up the hills, but it won't be a mushy vague drive like so many 1500's are when loaded to the max.
wiiman3893
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
Well, I'm basing that 8800 lbs off of the dodge towing chart for that cab, engine, and transmission. It's not the max capacity of all 2500s that year.
APT
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
I don't like the Ram 5.9L Gas engine. Diesel or get something new enough with the 5.7L Hemi.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Nov 23, 2015
You've got to get off that "tow capacity" thing. Tow capacity is the most bogus, misquoted number on a pickup truck.

Misquoted, because most of the time people look at that "up to XXXXlbs towing" in the glossy brochure, and assume that their truck is capable of that. That "up to" number is based on a very specific truck engine/transmission/gearing/cab/suspension configuration, which almost certainly does NOT apply to the truck you are looking at. It is a maximum theoretical capacity under ideal conditions.

What's more important is the payload of the truck. Basically, the truck can tow about 7 times its remaining payload capacity, after you've installed any aftermarket customizations, put all your stuff in it, loaded the wife/kids/dogs and their stuff in it.

With an '01 GM 1500, that's not much. Those trucks typically have about 1200lbs of payload capacity, totally empty. You're thinking, "Oh, I can tow 8400lbs of trailer, awesome!" Not so fast... Throw a fiberglass topper on there, 350lbs of driver/passenger(s), and you've just reduced that by 1/2.

My method doesn't even take into account towing performance. That's just keeping the trailer tongue off the ground and keeping it under control on the road.
bikendan
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
wiiman3893 wrote:
How about a 2001 ram 2500, 5.9L V8 with towing capacity of 8800?

what's its door sticker payload capacity?
more important than the 8800 number.
wiiman3893
Explorer
Nov 22, 2015
How about a 2001 ram 2500, 5.9L V8 with towing capacity of 8800?

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