Tow Vehicles and Hitches

A truck of that vintage, full timing, cross country plus 12 trips per year? Stick with 3/4+ ton. If you were a weekender for short tips, then 6k loaded is a great match for those half tones. But you'll be adding more like 2500+ pounds to the dry eight, plus a truck cab/bed will of stuff to cross the country so you need more payload too. Ford V10, GM 6.0 or 8.1L even better.

It has an trans cooler, and electronic brakes. and we do have another car which we intend to use mostly for cargo while moving. Since my wife and I will have to split anyway.

Full timing, you'll most likely be on the high side of the trailer's carrying capacity. Your actual trailer weights will be pushing the 7220 GVWR and actual hitch weight will be over 900 lbs. When you add the weight of a weight distributing hitch and anti sway equipment, your truck will need enough payload to support 1000 to 1100 lbs of trailer weight, in addition to the weight of any passengers, cargo, or aftermarket accessories, that may have been added to the truck.

Read the fine print in many tow vehicle owners manuals, you will see something like "the vehicles max towing capacity is limited to the weakest link in it's overall tow ratings". The weak link, in many cases is payload.

You mentioned "dealer added" tow package. That would make the tow package an aftermarket accessory, and doesn't necessarily increase anything in regards to towing. In fact, the added weight reduces available payload, by an amount equal to the weight of that added equipment. Example: Say the truck came from the factory, rated to carry 1400 lbs and tow 7000 lbs. After the dealer adds 200 lbs of towing equipment, the vehicles remaining capacities would be reduced to 1200 lbs carrying and 6800 lbs towing.

Will that 1500 GMC pull that trailer, probably. Will you (or the truck) enjoy the ride, probably not.

The '01 you are looking at, why do you state it is a "dealer installed" towing package (seller stated so???)? Did this truck not have the factory tow package? If not the factory installed package and it was dealer installed, did they install a trans cooler along with the receiver hitch and 7 pin plug? You will want a trans cooler for sure.

Also look in the glove box for the rear gear ratio code. You will want at least the 3.73, if not the 4.10 gears for that trailer depending on what motor the truck has (4.8 or 5.3???) since that truck only has a 4spd trans.

Does the truck have the GM factory hitch? If so, that design has known issues of failing. I would suggest a square tube hitch because round tube models can "wind up" (twist) when you latch up the wd bars.

Good luck!!!

Welcome to the forum !

First, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

If not, then do whatever...but know that you have taken the OEM(s) off both the
warranty hook (if ant left) and liability hook

If yes, then learn how that system works and make the risk decisions we all make
AKA...gambling that you made the correct 'for you' decision(s)

Post your TV's ratings and will also help you gather the info to make decisions

TV's:

GVWR
RGAWR
GCWR

Trailers:

GVWR
Dry
Tongue (it will be based on the dry weight)


Then go out and weigh your TV both empty, but best loaded ready as if going RV'ing.
Axle by axle

If not going to weigh it, then use their max ratings, GVWR's. Then
know that it will be a guesstimation and in need of a fudge factor


The generic formula to figure is:

GCWR >= TV + trailer + cargo/people/pets/etc

I wouldn't assume the tow weight is on the upper end because of the tow package. Is this truck 4wd, crew cab, lots of options? These all reduce tow capacity and payload. Th 8,300 number is probably a base truck with no options, 2wd, and regular cab.
Really, don't assume any numbers but use a scale.
If you pack really light and don't put much in the truck then you can probably make that combo work.
If you're buying a truck anyway there's no reason not to get a 2500 series.

Hi,

You are looking for a crewcab, but plan on towing about 7,500 pounds, so it really does not make sense.

Do you realize that the pickup can only tow the maximum weight WHILE only the driver is on board? No coolers, no bikes, extra passengers, anything.

I would suggest a 3/4 ton truck, and that will carry 600 pounds of passengers, 1,200 pounds of hitch weight, the 200 pound WD hitch, and anything else you might want to carry, without reaching the GVWR and going over it. It will get slightly less MPG than a lighter weight pickup, but can carry all the weight that you need to.

But don't just take any pickup from the lot. Make sure that it has enough GVWR for your loads, and passengers, and whatever else will be in the truck. Don't spec the lowest rear axle ratio either, you will not significantly load up the 3/4 ton truck, and can work well with a 3.73:1 rear axle ratio, or even a 3.54:1 ratio. 4.10:1 is not a 'requirement' for towing these days. Modern fuel injection can run at 2,000 RPM and still tow great- especially if you are running 91 octane gas.

Check the glovebox. See if it will have plenty of cargo rating - because you will have up to about 1,000 pounds of hitch weight, 200 pound hitch and the bars, ect. and whatever coolers, passengers and such as will be in the truck.. . .

Get a towing guide for Ford and GM and Dodge. Make sure that it will carry the load you plan to put on it.. . .

Good luck,

Fred.

It is your payload capacity that is likely to be the first thing you bump up against. for instance a Tundra is a fine half ton truck, it's towing capacity is 10K, but it's payload is only 1500 pounds. You'll never be pulling 10K without going over your payload. Everything in the cab or bed except a 150 pound driver has to fit in that payload and it has to include whatever hitch weight is involved, including the weight of your hitch and any weight distribution or anti-sway equipemnt.

you will be hearing many ideas. like
yes you can pull it, but can you stop it.
I have a 2009 1/2 GMC and have been pulling my 24 TT at 7200lbs all over CA and OR.
will lose ground going up hills, but just take my time.
Now lets look at the most important issue. cargo capacity. my GVWR is about 6800 lbs. cargo capacity is about 1450.
hitch weight was right at 900-1000 about 15%. I had to go high to stop sway.
add passengers and any cargo in truck bed, incl camper shell, kayaks,, generator etc. I think you will be over limit.

I now have a Ram 3500, and it is more than just a little difference, it is great. But my DW had us get a 28ft 5th wheel.
I was just uncomfortable being at the limit or over a little bit it did work.
putting that weight on I did go to better tires