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Hank85713's avatar
Hank85713
Explorer
Oct 13, 2013

towing a ranger

We are planning on using my 94 ranger 2wd SC as a toad. It has the twin I beam front end. Just need to ask if anyone tows one of these or has and what if any problems the front suspension could present?

Also how effective are the brake assists with power brakes? The ranger almost seems to have nothing and requires much force when engine is off so how are the add on brake systems at handling this?

I am also guessing that the steering wheel has to remain unlocked correct?

Thanks Hank

3 Replies

  • I tow a 2001 Ranger Edge, 2wd on the torsion bar IFS from the 4wd. Being tall, it can be a bit tricky on tight curves, I've learned to watch my cornering speeds. What works for the motorhome alone can get a bit squirrely for the tow. My Honda Fit tows a lot better on tight curves.

    My Previous (92) Ranger was twin I-beam. At speed, on curves, twin I-beam was a lot scarier than the A-arm suspensions replacing it. Towing, I would be even more careful about tight curves. A lot depends on weight of RV vs weight of tow, a tow vehicle resisting a curve can jerk thebrear end and push you to understeer, you have to be careful how you react to that.

    Experience driving both, 30,000 miles eac, I would prefer not to tow a twin I-beam Ranger. I don't know whether Ford ever recimmended those for recreational towing, as they did later Rangers and Explorers.

    Braking systems? Most presume working with unassisted brakes, the hit the pedal really hard. You set them up to work only in emergency braking situations, to slam on the brakes when you do the same with the RV. There are proportional systems, using vacuum assist in the towed vehicle, but they are quite a bit. more expensive. than basic toad brake systems, especialy brake in a box add-ons.
  • We tow a Ranger with auto trans. It has a drive shaft disconnect. Put it into drive, pull the disconnect, put the key into the first slot and travel. To reset, have the MH pull forward slowly while pushing on the trans disconnect, once it resets, put the trans into park and set the park brake. Disconnect from the MH and go.
    After haveing the brakes done twice I refuse to use the Brake Buddy.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Correct on Unlocked.

    Standard Transmission? Then just Neutral.

    We have a Brake Buddy. AKA Brake-in-a-Box. Device sits on the toad's floor and when activated it pushes the brake pedal with the driver's seat as backup. It develops enough force with its internal air compressor that you MUST bleed the toad's vacuum booster down before pulling off. The process is to get all hooked up, engine off, then pump the brake a half dozen times to get rid of the vacuum stored in the booster. THEN connect the Brake Buddy. Otherwise that first stop is a doozie. The BB will apply all its force on top of the boost in the the toad's system. A moderate stop in the RV will lock the brakes in the toad.

    Be sure the front suspension in your Ranger is TIGHT. If it's worn out, needing tie rods, etc, it'll be back there trying to wander, and it'll try to make the back of the coach wander. Likewise there can't be looseness in the towbar, baseplate, or the RV's hitch. Those Drop/Raise Drawbars can wobble side to side enough to disturb the tracking of your toad.

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