Towing ability of 2004 Suburban 5.3L, 4.10, 4WD
Can anyone give first hand knowledge of the towing abilities of a 2004 Suburban 4WD with 5.3L engine and 4.10 axles? It is 7200 MVGW and has Z82 hd towing rpo. Thanks!
Forum Discussion
Have a JEGs performance 5.7L in my 1980 C10 Silverado and it's at about 60K miles
Hurt my back and couldn't do the work myself then
Like this engine a lot, but not as much as the one I built with Stainless Valves,
280 Cam, worked head (springs, 3 angle valve grind, ported, flowed & matched, CC'd
and a few other goodies). Caught youngest daughter beating up Mustangs out on the
local boulevard...more than once... ;)
For sure to get the 4 bolt main, as that is what it came with. Difference between
a 'car' 5.7L and 'truck' 5.7L is a 2 bolt main vs 4 bolt main.
Hope you have the G80 diff (locker, but open diff below 200RPM on your 98). If
not, consider it if you will be in gravel/etc slippery conditions often
Forgot to say 'long tube' headers if you wish to put a bit more into it since
it is 'out'. Stuck with single exhaust if you have smog testing. If not, then
go true duals but out the sides, as straight out back will have the sound waves
bounce off the trailer to drone the interior of the Sub
Forget about intake mod's as that requires both more $$$ and re-engineering
knowledge...unless you do have that boy racer & gearhead in you...
Also for sure to get a new automatic, as it is the most complex assembly
in any GMT400 and even newer. Automatics are the weak link in any TV
and if I could have, ordered a manual for my Sub
I have a 'shift kit' on the Silverado, but note that it is boy racer stuff and
WILL wear out the drive line U-Joints sooner. It is good for towing, as with the
faster shifts has it in 'slip' mode a shorter period of time. 'Ride quality' folks
typically do NOT like shift kits, as it is much harder and when 'on it', might
have them feel it more in that 'snap' of their necks...
PS...I keep mine forever or till the wheels fall off and/or I don't/can't
fix it anymore. Best bang for my buck...
Hurt my back and couldn't do the work myself then
Like this engine a lot, but not as much as the one I built with Stainless Valves,
280 Cam, worked head (springs, 3 angle valve grind, ported, flowed & matched, CC'd
and a few other goodies). Caught youngest daughter beating up Mustangs out on the
local boulevard...more than once... ;)
For sure to get the 4 bolt main, as that is what it came with. Difference between
a 'car' 5.7L and 'truck' 5.7L is a 2 bolt main vs 4 bolt main.
Hope you have the G80 diff (locker, but open diff below 200RPM on your 98). If
not, consider it if you will be in gravel/etc slippery conditions often
Forgot to say 'long tube' headers if you wish to put a bit more into it since
it is 'out'. Stuck with single exhaust if you have smog testing. If not, then
go true duals but out the sides, as straight out back will have the sound waves
bounce off the trailer to drone the interior of the Sub
Forget about intake mod's as that requires both more $$$ and re-engineering
knowledge...unless you do have that boy racer & gearhead in you...
Also for sure to get a new automatic, as it is the most complex assembly
in any GMT400 and even newer. Automatics are the weak link in any TV
and if I could have, ordered a manual for my Sub
I have a 'shift kit' on the Silverado, but note that it is boy racer stuff and
WILL wear out the drive line U-Joints sooner. It is good for towing, as with the
faster shifts has it in 'slip' mode a shorter period of time. 'Ride quality' folks
typically do NOT like shift kits, as it is much harder and when 'on it', might
have them feel it more in that 'snap' of their necks...
PS...I keep mine forever or till the wheels fall off and/or I don't/can't
fix it anymore. Best bang for my buck...
