travel trailer stabilizer
Another topic I'm sure has been beat to death, but my research is turning up TOO many options. Looking for some first-hand experience. I have a 33' Jayco White Hawk 33RSKS.....kitchen has a slide ...
Forum Discussion
The photo below shows all the parts that come with the JT Strongarm kit. Is there anything missing? If you have electric stab. jacks, if you haven't got them yet, you also need the Lippert adapter kit #314597 shown in the 2nd photo otherwise the arms touch the stab. jack when retracted and won't fully retract.
I just installed a pair of BAL Lock-arm stabilizers. They mount to the base plate of a jack using a standard hex head bolt, but you need to go buy them as they aren't supplied. The 3rd photo shows this (not the best of photos). As everyone says, they do an excellent job of reducing movement.
On the "bounce" issue, with a 33' TT, you'll almost definitely need a pair of jacks or jack stands of some sort ahead of the axles to take out the flex in the frame otherwise you'll still find the movement objectionable. Could be scissor jacks, Camco stacking jacks or bottle jacks. The JT Strongarms will make a tremendous improvement. What I've found is that the most objectionable movement is when someone walks up or down the entry stairs as it causes the frame to rotate about an axis in a fore/aft direction. It's possible you may still have some annoying movement even after installing the Strongarms in which case, a jack stand (or bottle jack) will help at each of the 4 corners of the frame. Electric stabilizer jacks do a poor job of "stabilizing" and oughta come with some bracing like the Strongarms.
After trying just about everything known to mankind, I've come to the conclusion that there's only so much you can do to minimize movement in these things. You may even find that a TT has annoying movement from flex in the subfloor due to the spacing of floor joists and the subfloor thickness and material in which case you can't address that at all. Our friend's Keystone TT is like that.
I just installed a pair of BAL Lock-arm stabilizers. They mount to the base plate of a jack using a standard hex head bolt, but you need to go buy them as they aren't supplied. The 3rd photo shows this (not the best of photos). As everyone says, they do an excellent job of reducing movement.
On the "bounce" issue, with a 33' TT, you'll almost definitely need a pair of jacks or jack stands of some sort ahead of the axles to take out the flex in the frame otherwise you'll still find the movement objectionable. Could be scissor jacks, Camco stacking jacks or bottle jacks. The JT Strongarms will make a tremendous improvement. What I've found is that the most objectionable movement is when someone walks up or down the entry stairs as it causes the frame to rotate about an axis in a fore/aft direction. It's possible you may still have some annoying movement even after installing the Strongarms in which case, a jack stand (or bottle jack) will help at each of the 4 corners of the frame. Electric stabilizer jacks do a poor job of "stabilizing" and oughta come with some bracing like the Strongarms.
After trying just about everything known to mankind, I've come to the conclusion that there's only so much you can do to minimize movement in these things. You may even find that a TT has annoying movement from flex in the subfloor due to the spacing of floor joists and the subfloor thickness and material in which case you can't address that at all. Our friend's Keystone TT is like that.
