So we currently have an RV fridge that runs on propane when we are traveling. A lot of the new RV's offer the residential style fridge or the RV style. My questions:How do you keep the residential fridge cold when traveling?If you are going to travel a good bit, as opposed to sitting in a park for 6 months, is the RV version better?

Many of us with residential fridges have an inverter that runs the fridge while underway or boondocking. Factory installs usually have a larger battery bank to handle the inverter load, but retrofitted units like ours may need to add one or two more batteries. Another option for typical travel days between powered campsites is just to limit opening the fridge when unpowered. Most residential fridges will hold safe temperatures for at least 6-8 hours. For onboard generator equipped motorhomes, the generator can also be run from time to time while underway to bring the fridge temps back in line for longer days. Residential fridges take a little different power management than absorption fridges, but most of us find the trade off well worth the minor learning curve.

Our Class A has an onboard 1800W inverter, 4 house batteries, and a 5500W generator.When the inverter is powered up, the fridge runs from that source exclusively. When we travel, this is the mode we choose.We also run the generator while driving since it's hot here in FL. It also powers the battery charger, replenishing any energy used by the house batteries that are being used to power the inverter.If the generator quits, or we stop and power down the generator, the fridge is already running from the inverter. Nothing needs to be done. It will run all day on battery power.Once we arrive at the campground, and connect to shore power, only then do I switch off the inverter, allowing it to run from that source.Without the inverter setup, the fridge would only run while the generator is running, and when connected to shore power.Having used absorption style fridges for decades, I much prefer the residential style since with don't boondock for extended periods. This fridge is MUCH larger, and I don't have to manually defrost it monthly.

schlep1967 wrote:So we currently have an RV fridge that runs on propane when we are traveling. A lot of the new RV's offer the residential style fridge or the RV style. My questions:How do you keep the residential fridge cold when traveling?If you are going to travel a good bit, as opposed to sitting in a park for 6 months, is the RV version better?During summer we quite/most often run the generator while traveling so no problem with total electric. On inverter with 4 t105 house batteries the fridge should operate for quite some time. I'm sure the figures are out there. Find the draw of the fridge and the capacity of your batteries and divide. Add a cushion of perhaps 20% so you don't overdraw the batteries.

Driving pedestal to pedestal should not be a problem with the refer off. Assume 1.5A AC = 17A DC * 8 hrs = 136Ah. 4x GCs are about 220Ah to 50% SOC so you could even leave turned on with the inverter - PROVIDED you have 4x GCs. Refers vary in their draw.Boondocking is a different story. Possibilities for a towed:1. Run the gen while driving.2. Run the gen for hours when you arrive.3. Beef up the typical tow vehicle connection with heavier wiring and/or use a DC to DC charger. This is to overcome the high 12V wiring losses so the batteries will be charged when you arrive. Note - Make sure the tow alternator is adequate for the additional load for say lights, cab AC, wipers, etc type driving. 4. Add adequate solar which is an excellent solution when there is sunshine. Note: Boondocking gen charging above 85% SOC takes many hours and typically won't happen. So your already 10%+ discharged every day, plus other house loads. Unless of course you finish charging with solar which is a common scenario.

I have a residential refer in my fifth wheel. There are four 6 volt batteries powering my invertor. Never had a problem with it. Cools faster and better in hot weather. Once it cools down it doesn't run that much. Don't think I would ever go back.B.O.

Traveling with a Residential Fridge? | Good Sam Community

23 Replies

Weldon
Explorer
Jul 28, 2019
Love my residential refrigerator!
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Jul 28, 2019
austinjenna wrote:
A residential fridge is a huge cost savings for the manufacturer.

Think about it. No LP lines to run to it. No 12V power needed. So no 12V lines to run to it.

They now need to add an inverter which probably costs more than just some black pipe and wire.

Inverters are dirt cheap now days, $200 gets you a pretty healthy 2,000W inverter.

My residential conversion was $300 for 10 Cu ft fridge, $200 for inverter and one pair of 6V GC batts (series configuration for 12V) for $180 and less than $50 for 1/0 wire for a whopping $730. Although I don't really count the batteries since I was already needing a battery and I stepped up to the GC batts so in reality my upgrade was $550.

Compare that to $1800-$2500 for a new RV fridge in 10 cu ft size..

RV manufacturers are stepping up to residential fridges because it does cost less, there is less openings to the outside to leak and they save on running propane gas lines to the fridge (a bonus for those who have fridges in slides).

Solar panels are considerably much less expensive now days making a residential fridge a real easy decision.

My one pair of GC batts can easily go 24 hrs before needing to recharge and they supply all of my RV power for that time.

Best of all, I use virtually no propane which is a HUGE cost savings, over the last 11 yrs of use, I have only had to refill ONE 30 lb propane tank..
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 28, 2019
Austinjenna,

It is not the materials--it is the labor.
austinjenna
Explorer
Jul 28, 2019
A residential fridge is a huge cost savings for the manufacturer.

Think about it. No LP lines to run to it. No 12V power needed. So no 12V lines to run to it.

They now need to add an inverter which probably costs more than just some black pipe and wire.
Campinghoss
Explorer II
Jul 27, 2019
Our res frig runs 7 days at week all year. When we are travelling the truck keeps the inverter battery charged. Never have had a problem. We were at a cg recently that lost power due to a storm. The inverter kept the frig running perfectly for a few hours. I elected not to have a generator since we never dry camp. If something ever happened and the cg power was off for an extended time, I would just hook up the power cord to the truck and charge the battery that way.
Planning
Explorer
Jul 27, 2019
CA Traveler wrote:
The tow vehicle alternator and wiring and towed RV wiring first supply power to the RV house which includes an inverter for a res refer. Any excess power will charge the RV batteries.

The 12v power from my (dual, 220A + 157A) tow vehicle alternators is not routed in priority to my RV inverter. It goes directly to the RV vehicle running/brake lights, brakes and battery bank as the priority.

Also, with 377A alternator capability, even with wipers, heat/AC, and headlights, etc operating on the tow vehicle, we still have plenty of "excess power" to keep the RV bank charged for inverter use.

As I mentioned, in real-time use, our batteries never demonstrate any significant draw-down over an 8 - 10 hour driving period with at least 12.4 volts at the end of the day.
schlep1967
Nomad
Jul 27, 2019
Thanks for all the replys. What I'm getting from the responses is that I need to be thorough when looking at my next 5th wheel as to battery sizes and numbers. And also inverter capabilities if we go with the residential fridge. The one I like right now has both options in 18 cu ft. So no difference in size. And neither one would be mounted in a slide out.

We are not off the grid types but may end up doing a night in a parking lot every now and then.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jul 27, 2019
The tow vehicle alternator and wiring and towed RV wiring first supply power to the RV house which includes an inverter for a res refer. Any excess power will charge the RV batteries.

But the alternator is designed to charge the tow vehicle batteries and has no concept of a remote RV battery and it's charging requirements which is just a load to the alternator. Typically the tow battery quickly drops from bulk to float (13.4V), then add the wiring losses to the RV with loads and there may be limited RV battery charging.

If your RV battery is charged then great but that is not the case for some. A few tenths of voltage drop in the wiring matter in 12V charging. Some have added much larger wires and connectors (battery to battery). Another solution is a DC to DC booster in the RV that takes the lower incoming voltage and boosts it to charge the battery.
Planning
Explorer
Jul 27, 2019
We do not do "camping". The 5th wheel is our "hotel" with as many creature comforts as possible. We are disinterested in going into the forests or trails. We prefer paved and immaculate RV resort style traveling. We travel from "pedestal-to-pedestal", with drive times of 8-10 hours.

Upon removing the Nocold we went down in weight; our 18 cu. ft. residential reefer weighs 30 pounds less than the 12 cu. ft. Norcold.

The Reefer is on 24/7 while traveling, set at 0f for the freezer and 34f for the reefer portion. With a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter and 2 moderately sized 12v Group 24 RV/Marine type batteries, at the end of the travel day (always going from-to full hookups) the final battery voltage before connecting to A/C is about 12.5 to 12.7 volts.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jul 27, 2019
Campinfan wrote:
The alternator in my truck provides plenty of juice for the converter.
In most cases it charges the battery directly, bypassing the converter.