Forum Discussion
travelnutz
Aug 19, 2017Explorer II
"a dual purpose battery can only (safely) be taken down to 80% state of charge."
Total and complete bull if you have true deep cycle 12 V batteries!
I have been drawing down my 12V group 31 deep cycle marine batteries I have been using (always have been purchased from Meijer) for the last 30+ years to 50% and sometimes even lower for the 8-10 years I have each set (bank) of 5 to 7 of the batteries in our RV's and they always recharge to 99% to 100% on my meter (12.6 to 12.8 volts after sitting for atleast 24 hours. In all these years I have only had one battery fail as it was easy to know which one it was as it got real hot to the touch. Simply disconnected that battery as it was off gassing and sure didn't want it to blow. One batyery disconnected made little difference. Had 6 still working fine and replaced the bad one later.
I do wait for a sale to buy 5 to 7 new batteries when I have replaced them and never have paid over $100 each for them. Haven't looked at 6 volt golf cart batteries for years now as my experience with them was not good as it take 2 of them to have 12 volts and our Allego MH had 4 in the battery bank and when the one failed had to disconnect it's mate as there'd only be 6V on that leg with just one 6 V battery. Our present I'd ordered new 13 year old diesel truck has dual alternators which recharge the battery banks real fast when driving as there's #2 gauge fine strand copper welder for both + and - going directly from the alternator junction block to the RV battery bank using stainless wingnuts on 3/8" brass studs to connect the truck's 12 V alternator current to the trailer battery banks thru an 80 amp marine slow blow fuses at each end of the + cable and a marine either 300 amp or a 500 amp barrel switch (depending on which RV) to turn on or off. Has never blown one of the fuses in the 13 years from the present truck.
Sure, and ofcourse, most RV owners just use the small wire in the OEM harness on the tow vehicle going to the 7 pin plug which doesn't carry squat for recharging amps tp the coach batteries/battery bank and is why they seldom truely fully recharge their coach's batteries.
Had the same system I'd designed and installed in my previous 2 trucks also but they just had a single largest alternator offered I could order on them.
Some of this stuff is very easy to think thru, design, and build when you've been an engineer for over 50 years now. I have helped over a dozen other friends with a similar system for their RV rigs over the last roughly 12 years.
For me, it's 2 volt batteries only in and RV rig setup as it's proven to be excellent and I could care less what others want to do!
Total and complete bull if you have true deep cycle 12 V batteries!
I have been drawing down my 12V group 31 deep cycle marine batteries I have been using (always have been purchased from Meijer) for the last 30+ years to 50% and sometimes even lower for the 8-10 years I have each set (bank) of 5 to 7 of the batteries in our RV's and they always recharge to 99% to 100% on my meter (12.6 to 12.8 volts after sitting for atleast 24 hours. In all these years I have only had one battery fail as it was easy to know which one it was as it got real hot to the touch. Simply disconnected that battery as it was off gassing and sure didn't want it to blow. One batyery disconnected made little difference. Had 6 still working fine and replaced the bad one later.
I do wait for a sale to buy 5 to 7 new batteries when I have replaced them and never have paid over $100 each for them. Haven't looked at 6 volt golf cart batteries for years now as my experience with them was not good as it take 2 of them to have 12 volts and our Allego MH had 4 in the battery bank and when the one failed had to disconnect it's mate as there'd only be 6V on that leg with just one 6 V battery. Our present I'd ordered new 13 year old diesel truck has dual alternators which recharge the battery banks real fast when driving as there's #2 gauge fine strand copper welder for both + and - going directly from the alternator junction block to the RV battery bank using stainless wingnuts on 3/8" brass studs to connect the truck's 12 V alternator current to the trailer battery banks thru an 80 amp marine slow blow fuses at each end of the + cable and a marine either 300 amp or a 500 amp barrel switch (depending on which RV) to turn on or off. Has never blown one of the fuses in the 13 years from the present truck.
Sure, and ofcourse, most RV owners just use the small wire in the OEM harness on the tow vehicle going to the 7 pin plug which doesn't carry squat for recharging amps tp the coach batteries/battery bank and is why they seldom truely fully recharge their coach's batteries.
Had the same system I'd designed and installed in my previous 2 trucks also but they just had a single largest alternator offered I could order on them.
Some of this stuff is very easy to think thru, design, and build when you've been an engineer for over 50 years now. I have helped over a dozen other friends with a similar system for their RV rigs over the last roughly 12 years.
For me, it's 2 volt batteries only in and RV rig setup as it's proven to be excellent and I could care less what others want to do!
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