Two brake related things

ktmrfs wrote:
depending on the trailer weight and brakes, it is not always possible to lock up the wheels.

One thing that can help is to replace the brake wiring with adequate sized wire. often they use 14 or 16 g wire between the tongue and brakes and then 16 across the axle to the other side. You have close to 10A flowing with 4 wheels that results in enough voltage drop to reduce the max current and hence braking. On my trailer, factory wiring wouldn't allow the brakes to lock. went to #10 from the tongue to the wheels and then #12 across to the other side. Now they lock up with a setting of 6 on the prodigy.

Also, tapered wheel bearings MUST repeat MUST have end play. normally tighten them by hand +1/2 turn, to seat the bearings, then back off and tighten by hand and back off1/8- 1/4 turn or so to the next available cotter pin position on the nut.

Normally you won't see up and down play, but play in/out if you grab the tire at the top and try to push it in and pull it out. 1/16" of play at the top of the tire seems reasonable but near what I would say is max range. you should be able to just feel some play.

Thanks for posting this, I'm definitely going to look at upgrading my wiring. My brakes feel pretty weak on my trailer, have been since new (2014 model). Prodigy P2 cranked all the way up and I am not even close to locking them up. I've had them apart, re-greased and re-adjusted the bearings, adjusted the brakes and made sure each brake was getting power and working back in June this year. All checks out but I have not checked the amount of voltage drop, the wiring does look quite small. I've wondered how much it would help. Sounds like a nice project for next spring before camping starts up again, only one short trip left for us this year. Thanks!