Underslung coupler

9one1! wrote:
Who has one on their trailer and what do you use for a weight distribution hitch and sway control?

My 2011 Jayco 29QBH has one and it doesn't play nice with my Reece DC.

What are your experiences??

As a general rule, round bar WD hitches work best with TOP mounted couplers and TRUNION hitches work best with bottom mounted (underslung) couplers.

You can keep using the Dual Cam system but your best solution is to get a trunion head and WD bar system.

Lspangler wrote:
I had mine removed and replaced it with a top mount. Welding shop did the work. I don't remember the exact cost but it wasn't much. Maybe $50

Linc

Now that's an option I didn't think about, but you just might be on to something. After looking at the pics of 9one1!'s setup, that bottom coupler looks like it puts everything too low to the ground. If he were to have to switched like you did it would make everything have much more clearance and he wouldn't have to change hitches.

My vote would be having a top mounted coupler installed!!!

Weld-on 10,000lbs coupler for $31.

KJ

If going to the time & expense of installing a new top-mount coupler, I'd go for a Bulldog coupler as below. Supposed to be far better than standard Fulton type coupler.

I'm curious though: Jayco uses the BAL Ultraframe. With the usual Lippert frames, the top of the A-frame tubing is attached to the underside of the I-beams but on the BAL frames the bottom of the A-frame tubing is at the same elevation as the underside of the I-beams. If the coupler was changed, the coupler would be at a non-standard elevation relative to the frame of 5" (A-frame tubing height). Could this negatively affect the geometry and WDH setup?

If it were me, I'd leave the coupler as is and change to Reese trunnion style bars. The Reese DC WDH is awesome when it's all set up and tweaked properly and IMO better than others due to it's proactive self-aligning action.

Can't make sense of the tape measurements. What are the before and after front fender heights? Is the new truck 2" higher off the ground in the rear compared to the old truck or is there a 2" rise in the rear of the truck with WDH engaged? An inch or two of sag is typical. If the TT is 1 1/2" lower in the front end, I'd try and make it closer to level (still nose down) - use a ball with 1" rise if needed. This would provide more clearance from the road surface.

9,

You state the DC does not play nice with your trailer, but what is the exact issue: ground clearance? If so, as mentioned, buy a trunnion style wdh. Here is our DC Trunnion Bar system on our Jayco with a bottom mount coupler.



Plenty of ground clearance, and no issues with trailer frame interference either.

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

Agree with switching to a trunnion setup. Having the head on the bottom is actually a blessing once the hitch is correct.
Cutting the coupler off would be the last thing I'd consider, you just need to buy the right hitch.
Should be what you need right here.

I can't see the pictures for some reason but I have an underslung coupler and a round bar setup. I saw some pictures in the past, maybe some of those guys commented here, of a DC setup with the trunnion bars. It was setup with the bars parallel to the frame and seemed to work perfectly.
On my trailer, without DC the WD bars have an upwards angle from the hitch towards the back of the trailer. It works but is noisy like you said. I fully intend to go with a DC trunnion setup as I have had this in the past and know it works. That would be the route I would go if I were you. You absolutley beat a properly setup DC system IMHO.