water filters

Bierp wrote:
We're about to go full time . . . I had the dealer install a whole house filter . . . They put in an Everpure EV925205 . . . the filters are only rated for 700 gallons. For a whole house system (including laundry and shower) that's going to go by pretty quickly when full-timing.

I expect I'll probably be looking at a more robust system in the near future, but I'd like feedback on the one they did put in.

I've been full timing for about 5 years and made sure my water filtration system could handle just about anything. But here are my suggestions for a "basic" full timing system:

I would ditch your current system and do the following:

First, install a whole house, clear single canister sediment filter. This will at least keep the "rocks" out of your system. I suggest a clear filter housing because it's important to see what's going on with your filter. Opaque canisters or Inline filters don't let you see this:



Second, if you have room, install an under-the-sink Reverse Osmosis system for your drinking water.

Red Racer - that's quite a setup, but it looks like all you really needed was the 30 cent screen in the hose :)

I use the inline blue filter (there's a 2X version now ) and a Brita to make drinkable.

WTP-GC wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I have plenty of flow even with my WATTS regulator set to 60psi. Something is not right with your setup.

I wondered the same thing as well. I bought an expensive pressure regulator but the gauge never showed greater than 20 PSI on the hose, so I figured that its a faulty unit. So I went back to my old pressure regulator (non-adjustable style) and its preset to 40 PSI. I'm going to replace the expensive one and see if that makes any difference. Without the regulator, I have strong flow. I believe I read that the filter limits flow to 1 GPM.

Since this thread has come back to life a little, I figured I'd update even my own post.

I moved the basic pressure regulator to be "after" the filter. That appears to have solved my flow issue. Having it installed "before" the filter compounded the flow restriction issue that the filter itself naturally creates.

TechWriter wrote:

I would ditch your current system and do the following:

First, install a whole house, clear single canister sediment filter. This will at least keep the "rocks" out of your system. I suggest a clear filter housing because it's important to see what's going on with your filter. Opaque canisters or Inline filters don't let you see this:

Second, if you have room, install an under-the-sink Reverse Osmosis system for your drinking water.

I appreciate the feedback.

I'll definitely be going with the RO under the sink. As for the sediment canister replacing the Everpure system they gave me, what's the reasoning here? Is it because it is a crappy product, or because I'll go through them too quickly with a 700 gallon rating on a whole-house system, or will it hurt my pressure, or...?

Just curious. It was your rig that made me ask this in the first place, so I definitely appreciate your suggestions.

Bierp wrote:

I appreciate the feedback.

I'll definitely be going with the RO under the sink. As for the sediment canister replacing the Everpure system they gave me, what's the reasoning here? Is it because it is a crappy product, or because I'll go through them too quickly with a 700 gallon rating on a whole-house system, or will it hurt my pressure, or...?
.

You'll be going through filters very fast. So weigh the cost of these filters against a standard-size filter that you can clean over and over again.

TechWriter wrote:

You'll be going through filters very fast. So weigh the cost of these filters against a standard-size filter that you can clean over and over again.

Fair enough.

For the RO 150, is the flow from that adequate to supply a kitchen sink? Conveniently absent from the vids I'm seeing are actual flow examples. I'm afraid I have no concept if 150 gallons/day produces enough flow to, say, wash a load of dishes? I see that there's a drinking water only kit that can be acquired. Not sure if that's the key to success or if it's unnecessary.

You can still put a prefilter of 25 micron or smaller in a big ten inch canister filter housing such as sold t Home Depot or Lowes. It will get most of the stuff and you smaller small micron filter in house will last a lot longer.
We have an under counter and change it evey year, for water ftn and ice maker. It
s a pain. We also have two filters one .05 micron and and thee other 5 microns I think an a third in reserve .09 micron ceramic that is a pain to clean. I carry cheaper sediment filters if I use both and the .5 micron in the bay.
In Michigan, nice campground Turkey town or something, The pre filter loaded up with in three days when the park filled up on the weekend. Once we got to Oklahoma had to the main filter. Good water there and didn't use prefilter. The mail filter took care of chlorine by itself and other stuff.

Bierp wrote:

For the RO 150, is the flow from that adequate to supply a kitchen sink?

Oops! That RO 150 I linked to is not a good choice.

Here's a better choice -- Watts Premier 4-stage under-the-sink RO system. The Watts RO system has a holding tank which you'll need and a separate spigot for the RO water. Watts is a good brand and a 4-stage is just fine.

I know most of you guys have problems with water pressure when trying to setup an under counter reverse osmosis water filter. Many of them require 40 psi or more pressure. My sink faucet only had 20 psi.

Found this booster pump on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XXY32R/


This pump works off the 12V battery. Pressure boosted up to 65 psi, which was ideal for my water filter.

I used the filter system below.
https://www.wecofilters.com/gmq-50.html



Compact and neatly fits under the sink of my rv along with some other stuff that I already stocked up there. Has a small 2 gallon tank and a drinking water faucet.

Right now, I'm filling up the tank manually by powering the pump when I need to. Back-flow is prevented by using a check valve installed on the 1/4" water line feeding the filter. I'm planing on automating this later on by installing a solenoid and high/low pressure switches. Will keep you guys updated.

TechWriter wrote:

Bierp wrote:

For the RO 150, is the flow from that adequate to supply a kitchen sink?

Oops! That RO 150 I linked to is not a good choice.

Here's a better choice -- ***Link Removed***. The Watts RO system has a holding tank which you'll need and a separate spigot for the RO water. Watts is a good brand and a 4-stage is just fine.

Watts ro looks good, but was there enough space to install it? The 3 gallon tank and the regular sized filters/membranes take up a lot of space. Also, what water pressure do you have and was that enough to run the filter?