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DallasSteve's avatar
DallasSteve
Nomad
Jan 17, 2018

What Do I Need To Add To Flat-Tow A Jeep?

I'm planning to get a Jeep Wrangler and tow it behind a motorhome. I've read a little about doing this and I'm seeing a number of steps that can be involved to get the Jeep and RV set up correctly. Or my other alternative is I can buy a trailer and set it up to pull the Jeep on the trailer. I've read that a lot of parks don't have room to park the trailer so I'm leaning towards 4-down towing, but you can comment on that angle, too. Here are the tow components that I'm aware of:

1 - Tow bar (standard or adjustable)
2 - A base plate or an aftermarket bumper
3 - A connection for the Jeep lights
4 - A brake controller (do most people do this) (which type of system)
5 - Remote tire pressure monitoring system (do most people do this)

Are there other modifications that I am missing? Are there any modifications needed to the RV? I don't want to tackle all of this myself. I might mess it up and it's not what I enjoy doing. How much will I need to spend, parts and labor, if I pay a professional to do this? What would a decent trailer and modifications to strap down the Jeep cost if I went that route? Is flat-towing safer than trailering the Jeep or about the same?

Thanks, Steve

28 Replies

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  • Ski_Pro_3's avatar
    Ski_Pro_3
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    I would recommend to either have someone with experience on setting up a toad help you, or have a qualified shop do it and explain how they did it and how you are to utilize it.
    I had two good buddies with almost the exact same setups that I was shooting for help me and we got it right and I KNOW what does what and why it's needed.
  • MDKMDK's avatar
    MDKMDK
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    DallasSteve wrote:
    MDKMDK wrote:
    DallasSteve wrote:
    I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.


    That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

    Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.


    I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.


    That's what we did. If you buy a motorhome from an RV dealer, they're more than likely going to have some options for you for towing equipment. Ours favored Blue Ox equipment, and they will know how to set up your Wrangler, like they did for ours. Apparently, it's not hard to do, if you have some basic tools and a place to work, and can follow instructions, but we chose the easy (lazy) route and had our motorhome dealer do it all, and set it up. So far, so good.

    As far as buying motorhomes that can or can't pull something, not everyone wants, or can afford, a diesel pusher. A 35' class A gasser with a Ford 6.8L V10 and 6 speed transmission will have plenty of power and braking to pull a Wrangler, as long as the Wrangler weighs less than 5,000lbs. And they do. :C
  • Tom_Barb's avatar
    Tom_Barb
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    DallasSteve wrote:

    Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.


    Just a question,, Why would anyone that is planing on towing anything, buy a coach not capable of the job?

    We knew we were going to tow, we thought we would be towing our 2002 Dodge 3/4 ton diesel. We wanted a 34-38 foot coach, we couldn't find one that had the capability with the safety cushion we wanted, so we bought the 40' Newmar and a year later we ended up towing the jeep. and some times the trailer loaded.
    and yes with the trailer we have more options.

    I have seen the results of several accidents involving motorhomes and towed vehicles. every one where the coach hit something solid the tow bar was destroyed, and there was damage to the coach, and the towed. Both accidents that involved cars on trailers, the cars stayed on the trailer and was unloaded and driven away.

    not saying that is always the case.
  • Tom_Barb's avatar
    Tom_Barb
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    DallasSteve wrote:
    I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.


    DRAW BAR

    They come in all sizes and capacities.

    I have 1 for 20,000 pounds ( I seldom use it)

    Your average tow bar is only rated for 10k, I believe there is a couple rated for more than that, but they are expensive.
  • Tom_Barb's avatar
    Tom_Barb
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    MDKMDK wrote:
    X2. I haven't tried using a trailer for the same reasons, and the added weight to the overall package, and the issue with class A draw bars being usually limited to 5,000lbs.


    When your towing limit is 5k, you probably shouldn't be towing much. (a Jeep is 4500 pounds)
    If you are saying that the hitch weight limit is 5k, the trailer will not come near that. mine is 800 pounds.
  • DallasSteve's avatar
    DallasSteve
    Nomad
    Jan 18, 2018
    MDKMDK wrote:
    DallasSteve wrote:
    I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.


    That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

    Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.


    I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.
  • MDKMDK's avatar
    MDKMDK
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    skipro3 wrote:
    Just the sheer fact there is a larger footprint when setting up camp when you include a trailer for your extra vehicle should be a serious consideration when decided if towing or hauling a car is better or not.

    With the right setup, it's mere minutes to unhook the towed and park it. It's never mere minutes with a trailer. At least any time I've had to haul a car, it's a lot of work. Just backing up to a large trailer accurately enough to hitch up is a difficult chore in a large motorhome.

    Configuring your towed set up will take some time and research, which you are progressing on. It took me a few days to figure out how to set up my safety cables, wiring, braking, etc, but now it's plug and play with a tow bar that is adjustable so I only need to get close to set it up. As I pull away, the tow bar locks into place and away we go.

    I would recommend a rear view camera and monitor. A cheap set up costing under $100 and you'll be able to see if there's anything bad happening.


    X2. I haven't tried using a trailer for the same reasons, and the added weight to the overall package, and the issue with class A draw bars being usually limited to 5,000lbs.
  • Tom_Barb's avatar
    Tom_Barb
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    MDKMDK wrote:


    X2. If it can be done easily 4 down, I wouldn't add the complexity of a trailer or dolly. It's just one more thing that can fail or break down. YMMV. :)

    it certainly can be done easily either way, placing the jeep on a trailer isn't the big deal that's been made of it.
  • Ski_Pro_3's avatar
    Ski_Pro_3
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    Just the sheer fact there is a larger footprint when setting up camp when you include a trailer for your extra vehicle should be a serious consideration when decided if towing or hauling a car is better or not.

    With the right setup, it's mere minutes to unhook the towed and park it. It's never mere minutes with a trailer. At least any time I've had to haul a car, it's a lot of work. Just backing up to a large trailer accurately enough to hitch up is a difficult chore in a large motorhome.

    Configuring your towed set up will take some time and research, which you are progressing on. It took me a few days to figure out how to set up my safety cables, wiring, braking, etc, but now it's plug and play with a tow bar that is adjustable so I only need to get close to set it up. As I pull away, the tow bar locks into place and away we go.

    I would recommend a rear view camera and monitor. A cheap set up costing under $100 and you'll be able to see if there's anything bad happening.
  • MDKMDK's avatar
    MDKMDK
    Explorer
    Jan 18, 2018
    DallasSteve wrote:
    I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.


    That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

    Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.

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