What Equalizer Hitch to Choose

AngryBert-63 wrote:

I was going by the factory numbers.

As for my camper - 6K and 8 lug. Solid builds these Northwood/Outdoors RV units.

Yeah the 2011 Brochure shows 8100, but my sticker is lower.

Very solid, it's one of the reasons I bought it. We spent a lot of time on not so nice roads and the overbuilt chassis is great for that.

AH64ID wrote:

AngryBert-63 wrote:

AH64ID wrote:
Get the 14K model, it uses the same bars as the 12K model with a stronger head.

If I had known that back in 2008 when I bought my hitch I would have gotten the 14Klb model.

That being said my 12K model does great with my 1250lbs of TW and 9-10K GTW.

Doesn't that model have max weight of 8200?

GVWR of the trailer? 7900 according to the sticker, but that was based on dry weight + 1750lbs and not structural design. As the camper got heavier thru the years the GVWR went up with no frame/axle design.

The camper has a 10K frame (at least, it could be a 12K) and 5200lb axles, as long as I don't exceed those I don't worry about the weight. Average TW is 1250±50lbs and TAW of 7500±500.

I haven't seen many campers with a 10K GVWR that are built on stronger frames, to include toy haulers. Most the TT's or TH's I compare it to that have 2K lb higher GVWR's have smaller frames and often smaller axles.

I don't treat it much differently than the sticker on the door of my TV, it's there and as long I am know about the design I don't worry about it.

I'd be willing to be we have very similar frames, seeing as both our campers are built by the same parent company. Looking at the specs of yours it comes with 16's, so does it have 6K or 5200lbs axles? Both axles are the same (brakes, bearings, etc) but the 6K spring pack is stiffer. 6K's can be had with 8 lug or 6 lug hubs. I like the OEM 16's thou, I just had to fork out the cash to swap to 16's.

I was going by the factory numbers.

As for my camper - 6K and 8 lug. Solid builds these Northwood/Outdoors RV units.

1400 lbs

The Reese dual cam WDH is a nice setup because of it's self-centering action. Trunnion style bars are a little easier to handle and store.

After you have the WDH installed and you are all loaded up for camping, I would suggest going to a scale to determine the trailer's actual weight (GVW) and the actual tongue weight (TW) so you know exactly where you are at. That will verify that the bar rating is good, will give you remaining cargo carrying capacity and what payload capacity is left in the truck. You can also use the numbers to figure out exactly how much weight is transferred between axles and if the WDH could use some fine tuning.

AngryBert-63 wrote:

AH64ID wrote:
Get the 14K model, it uses the same bars as the 12K model with a stronger head.

If I had known that back in 2008 when I bought my hitch I would have gotten the 14Klb model.

That being said my 12K model does great with my 1250lbs of TW and 9-10K GTW.

Doesn't that model have max weight of 8200?

GVWR of the trailer? 7900 according to the sticker, but that was based on dry weight + 1750lbs and not structural design. As the camper got heavier thru the years the GVWR went up with no frame/axle design.

The camper has a 10K frame (at least, it could be a 12K) and 5200lb axles, as long as I don't exceed those I don't worry about the weight. Average TW is 1250±50lbs and TAW of 7500±500.

I haven't seen many campers with a 10K GVWR that are built on stronger frames, to include toy haulers. Most the TT's or TH's I compare it to that have 2K lb higher GVWR's have smaller frames and often smaller axles.

I don't treat it much differently than the sticker on the door of my TV, it's there and as long I am know about the design I don't worry about it.

I'd be willing to be we have very similar frames, seeing as both our campers are built by the same parent company. Looking at the specs of yours it comes with 16's, so does it have 6K or 5200lbs axles? Both axles are the same (brakes, bearings, etc) but the 6K spring pack is stiffer. 6K's can be had with 8 lug or 6 lug hubs. I like the OEM 16's thou, I just had to fork out the cash to swap to 16's.

AH64ID wrote:
Get the 14K model, it uses the same bars as the 12K model with a stronger head.

If I had known that back in 2008 when I bought my hitch I would have gotten the 14Klb model.

That being said my 12K model does great with my 1250lbs of TW and 9-10K GTW.

Doesn't that model have max weight of 8200?

Get the 14K model, it uses the same bars as the 12K model with a stronger head.

If I had known that back in 2008 when I bought my hitch I would have gotten the 14Klb model.

That being said my 12K model does great with my 1250lbs of TW and 9-10K GTW.

Need-A-Vacation wrote:
TS,

Make sure if you don't already know you don't install a ball with to long of a shank. Good choice btw and some great advice!

Bert,

It is suggested to include any cargo weight in the truck bed that is behind the axles plus your potential tw in deciding which bars to go with. I don't see where it would hurt to go with the 1500lb bars. Best thing to do is give Reese a call and ask them. I know I recently emailed them asking a question, and they responded within a day or so.

Bailed on Reese and chose Equalizer #1400.

TS,

Make sure if you don't already know you don't install a ball with to long of a shank. Good choice btw and some great advice!

Bert,

It is suggested to include any cargo weight in the truck bed that is behind the axles plus your potential tw in deciding which bars to go with. I don't see where it would hurt to go with the 1500lb bars. Best thing to do is give Reese a call and ask them. I know I recently emailed them asking a question, and they responded within a day or so.

Thanks for your replies. I bought the 1400lb one from Amazon. Now I just need to switch them out. Happy camping!

Funny - I'm in the same boat as you - only a few minor differences.

My trailer GVWR is 10,400, dry hitch is 772. I'm installing a Reese SC with 1200lb bars.

I know if I max load the camper I have the potential (on paper) to overload the bars (10,400 X .013 = 1352) but that isn't exactly reality. How and where the cargo goes is key to influencing the tongue weight and I can't see how I can get that much cargo forward of my front axle on the RV.

The way I see it, I'm more in the sweet spot with the 1200lb (600-1200lb range) than with the next available 1500lb (800-1500lb range).

I know that on paper I can overload the bars but practically and physically I can't imagine how I would do it with the camper's interior setup.

Thoughts? 1200lb or 1500lb?

I know this is a bit of a thread jack and I apologize, but the weights were so close I figured I'd ask the same thing -

Which way would you go?