What to tow???

Motorhome Magazine has a free, downloadable dinghy tow guide. I think it is available back till 2002. Just find the year of the truck you are interested in, and it will give you the towing options... Wether it is 4 down towable, etc.
I'm sure someone here will give you suggestions on what trucks to check out

07blacktruck wrote:
Looking for advice here which could be a scary thing. Not sure if this is workable or not.
I recently bought a newer DP motorhome. I would like to be able to take another vehicle along for when I am parked. All well and good so far. I want to get a truck so I can haul my motorcycle in the back.Here's the question. What kinds of trucks are flat towable? I could go either way on 4WD or not. I just want enough room for the Guzzi in the truck. Any advice on where to find that info would be great. Any suggestions too for that matter.
Thanks

07blacktruck,
Well Sir, we're doing EXACTLY what you're thinking of. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon, 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. We're towing an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. In the bed of that truck is a Rampage motorcycle lift/carrier. In that carrier is an '08 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing.

Now, that truck, with a full tank of fuel is right at 5,300 lbs. The Rampage hovers close to about, 275 plus or minus. And the 1800 Wing, right close to 900 lbs.

So, we're dragging behind us, close to 6,500 lbs., plus or minus. Our coach handles that load very nicely. It's not a rocket ship by any means. On grades, it slows down a bit. No biggie, we'll get where we're going. The Rampage lift is the only way to go in this kind of situation. It leaves quite a bit of room in the bed if you still want to haul some things back there.

I installed that lift with a system that makes it swiftly removable. I made a cart for that lift. the cart is 1" higher than the bed of the truck. So, when it comes time to load the lift, I remove the tail gate (it's not used when we're hauling the bike) and, roll the lift up to the back of the truck. Since the lift, on the cart, is one inch higher, it actually goes into the bed, about 1/3 the way.

I then lift up the rear half of the lift, the front is supported by the bed, and, the wife simply rolls the cart out of the way and, I finish sliding the lift, the rest of the way into the truck bed. The system I installed for installing the bolts is already and permenantly in place. the whole operation for installing that lift, takes me right at, 2-4 minutes.

When it comes time to remove it, it takes me about the same amount of time and, it's right back onto that cart. The lift is stored in the corner of the garage, out of the weather.

As for the truck and the coach, I use a Blue Ox Aventa 10,000 lb. tow bar and, I recently set the coach and the truck up with the M & G braking system. That's the slickest braking system on the market, by far. NOTHING is inside the truck, for application of the brakes. It has a unit that is positioned between the master cylinder and the power brake unit.

All that's between the truck and the coach is, a curely-que air line. It takes all of about 3-4 seconds to hook up and, you're ready to tow.

Now, as for what type of truck for your toad. Well, first of all, primarily only 4x4 trucks are flat towable WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATIONS. You can tow a two wheel drive truck but, not without doing extensive modifications.

With todays trucks, there's virtually almost "0" difference in mpg between the two. That is if, you were worrying about gas mileage of a 2x vs a 4x. Now, Chevy, GMC and Dodge 4x4 trucks have been flat towable for years. Ford, in it's infinite wisdom, was NOT FLAT TOWABLE until the model/year 2012. That's when they made a change to their transfer case to be able to put it into NEUTRAL, for flat towing.

All the other makes, have already had that option in place, like stated, for years. You see, you need a 4x4 because, it's transfer case having a neutral capability, disconnects both the front and rear drive shafts so that when they spin, while you're towing it, they have no effect on the transfer case or, the transmission or, engine.

Now, I don't know what year you might be interested in but, in the Chevy and GMC, prior to 2013, all you did in prep for towing was, put the T/C in neutral, put the trans in park, release the parking brake and, remove the key. You're now ready to tow.

But, in the 2013 models and newer, you now do all of what I just stated PLUS, you have to disconnect the negative battery cable. Not many fans of that at present. Lot's of guys trying to figure out how to make that a simple move. I've suggested a battery switch with a removable red key. Done it to a couple of Jeeps and, it works slick.

AS for the newer Ford F-150 4x4, as far as I know, you do this 5 or 6 step process in prep for towing and, you're ready to go with no disconnecting of any battery cables etc. I don't know about the Dodges. Someone might chime in here about those.

Anyway, hope I've enlightened you on your quest. Here's a pic or two of our setup.
Scott

Saw a rig this summer, big fancy high dollar DP. Anyhow the guy had a lift on the rear of the motorhome and then towed a dodge pu with a razor something in the back of it. Had all the toys being pulled with the MH. Not sure if that is what you want but it does leave the PU with an empty bed if needed by just driving the razor out and parking it. No lifts etc for putting a bike in it. OBTW it was a short bed pick up.

remco might be a good place to start, but before buying be sure to check the owner's manual under either recreational towing, or towing behind a motorhome to confirm this. do not buy something that needs mechanical changes to tow, such as a drive shaft disconnect or tranny lube pump.
bumpy

FIRE UP wrote:


07blacktruck,
Well Sir, we're doing EXACTLY what you're thinking of. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon, 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. We're towing an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. In the bed of that truck is a Rampage motorcycle lift/carrier. In that carrier is an '08 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing.

Now, that truck, with a full tank of fuel is right at 5,300 lbs. The Rampage hovers close to about, 275 plus or minus. And the 1800 Wing, right close to 900 lbs.

So, we're dragging behind us, close to 6,500 lbs., plus or minus. Our coach handles that load very nicely. It's not a rocket ship by any means. On grades, it slows down a bit. No biggie, we'll get where we're going. The Rampage lift is the only way to go in this kind of situation. It leaves quite a bit of room in the bed if you still want to haul some things back there.

I installed that lift with a system that makes it swiftly removable. I made a cart for that lift. the cart is 1" higher than the bed of the truck. So, when it comes time to load the lift, I remove the tail gate (it's not used when we're hauling the bike) and, roll the lift up to the back of the truck. Since the lift, on the cart, is one inch higher, it actually goes into the bed, about 1/3 the way.

I then lift up the rear half of the lift, the front is supported by the bed, and, the wife simply rolls the cart out of the way and, I finish sliding the lift, the rest of the way into the truck bed. The system I installed for installing the bolts is already and permenantly in place. the whole operation for installing that lift, takes me right at, 2-4 minutes.

When it comes time to remove it, it takes me about the same amount of time and, it's right back onto that cart. The lift is stored in the corner of the garage, out of the weather.

As for the truck and the coach, I use a Blue Ox Aventa 10,000 lb. tow bar and, I recently set the coach and the truck up with the M & G braking system. That's the slickest braking system on the market, by far. NOTHING is inside the truck, for application of the brakes. It has a unit that is positioned between the master cylinder and the power brake unit.

All that's between the truck and the coach is, a curely-que air line. It takes all of about 3-4 seconds to hook up and, you're ready to tow.

Now, as for what type of truck for your toad. Well, first of all, primarily only 4x4 trucks are flat towable WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATIONS. You can tow a two wheel drive truck but, not without doing extensive modifications.

With todays trucks, there's virtually almost "0" difference in mpg between the two. That is if, you were worrying about gas mileage of a 2x vs a 4x. Now, Chevy, GMC and Dodge 4x4 trucks have been flat towable for years. Ford, in it's infinite wisdom, was NOT FLAT TOWABLE until the model/year 2012. That's when they made a change to their transfer case to be able to put it into NEUTRAL, for flat towing.

All the other makes, have already had that option in place, like stated, for years. You see, you need a 4x4 because, it's transfer case having a neutral capability, disconnects both the front and rear drive shafts so that when they spin, while you're towing it, they have no effect on the transfer case or, the transmission or, engine.

Now, I don't know what year you might be interested in but, in the Chevy and GMC, prior to 2013, all you did in prep for towing was, put the T/C in neutral, put the trans in park, release the parking brake and, remove the key. You're now ready to tow.

But, in the 2013 models and newer, you now do all of what I just stated PLUS, you have to disconnect the negative battery cable. Not many fans of that at present. Lot's of guys trying to figure out how to make that a simple move. I've suggested a battery switch with a removable red key. Done it to a couple of Jeeps and, it works slick.

AS for the newer Ford F-150 4x4, as far as I know, you do this 5 or 6 step process in prep for towing and, you're ready to go with no disconnecting of any battery cables etc. I don't know about the Dodges. Someone might chime in here about those.

Anyway, hope I've enlightened you on your quest. Here's a pic or two of our setup.
Scott

Thanks all for the info. I will have to check the links shown. Fire up, you're doing exactly what I think would be the best for my travels. I have the 6.7 Cummins and really don't foresee a problem with power. Not being first to the top of a hill has never been a concern of mine. I will now have to focus my search on a decent used truck. Not needing a new one or even a full sized one. Just big enough to get me around and haul my bike. I know they are getting harder to find but what about an S-10/ Ford Ranger type with a manual transmission? What would be necessary to make one of those work?
I appreciate all the info. Newbie here to this world of towing a car like this.

IMO, the first consideration should be the modifications you are willing to do. I am not willing to do any mods! No, not even a lube pump or drive shaft disconnect! If that is also your feeling, then you are pretty much limited to a 4X4 with a Neutral position in the transfer case. Then you must read the Owners Manual to see if it is towable. If the instructions for towing are not in the manual, you can check with REMCO to see what they say.
The second consideration is the configuration you want or need. Can you get by with a standard cab (hard to find), or do you actually need an extended or quad cab? Keep in mind that the bigger the cab, the heavier the truck. The same goes for the truck bed or box. Do you need a long box, or will a short box do the job? Again, longer is heavier.
Third is "brand loyalty". For me, it would probably be a Dodge (or Ram, these days). Some people don't care, as long as it will do what they want it to do.
Oh, and of course, don't forget color! I wanted a red one, but the one I found was over $6000. I found a green one(nearly identical) that I was able to make a deal on for $3700. So, I have a green truck.
Have fun shopping.

"All the other makes, have already had that option in place, like stated, for years. You see, you need a 4x4 because, it's transfer case having a neutral capability, disconnects both the front and rear drive shafts so that when they spin, while you're towing it, they have no effect on the transfer case or, the transmission or, engine.

Now, I don't know what year you might be interested in but, in the Chevy and GMC, prior to 2013, all you did in prep for towing was, put the T/C in neutral, put the trans in park, release the parking brake and, remove the key. You're now ready to tow."
Fire up, another thought here sir.
When you remove the key, you lock the steering wheel. Am I reading this right? I have pulled trailers for a million miles but not a flat tow like this. Doesn't the front wheels need to turn (caster steer) as you pull it?

Many of the new vehicles have smart keys and no lock steering. I see a lot of RVers towing Chevy 4X4 PUs 4 down.

WyoTraveler wrote:
Many of the new vehicles have smart keys and no lock steering. I see a lot of RVers towing Chevy 4X4 PUs 4 down.

I did not know that. I bought my last new truck in 06. It's the last of the Duramax without a DPF. Until this I had not thought of flat towing anything. That truck is probably a little big to tow. I really haven't followed the new trucks in many years. Thanks for that info. I had no idea they were that way.