Whatever happened to fiberglass LP tanks ?

I wondered about these. They had some cool advantages, mainly the ability to check level, and being lightweight. However, I think the entire market for fiberglass composite cylinders was killed by the company that went under, as people thought all composite cylinders were flawed. Even with good ones like Viking, it may be tough to get them filled.

As for what I do, I have three. Two are on the RV with a changeover valve, one is kept filled/exchanged and ready to go. That way, when one goes empty, I just swap the filled one, then next time I hit a Lowe's or other store, I exchange it.

These fiberglass ones are not as used in RV's as much as the boating world. Boats do not have the same carry capacity as RV's etc. So Aluminum or fiberglass are used more. Along with in salt water conditions, the steel ones rust much quicker than on/in a land yacht.
If you race a sailboat as I do, you count how many lbs you can leave behind. so the lighter cylinders are worth it to a degree.
They do command a pretty penny tho.

marty

I'm scratching my head as to why using tanks sequentially helps out the OP to know the exact remaining level of propane they have available for camping before having to break camp or drive just the tow vehicle someplace to refill??

i.e. Suppose you what to boondock camp out in the middle of nowhere many miles from where propane is? Whether you have one, two or more tanks and no matter how they're hooked up you still might want to know absolutely how much propane you have left near the end so that you can plan the next long trip to refill - especially if you get hit unexpectedly with a run of cold weather out there boondocking.

rhagfo wrote:
99% have auto switch over regulators, start with two full tanks, both open.

SoundGuy wrote:
Downside is that with both tanks open you can easily drain both and be left with nothing, especially when the tanks live under a cover that hides the auto changeover regulator's gauge. :M

rhagfo wrote:
Well I would figure how to put a sight window in the cover.

As I've recently done as one of my winter projects. :)



Not much to "figure out" ... just cut a hole in the appropriate location and secure a piece of clear plastic over the hole = done. :B

pnichols wrote:
I'm scratching my head as to why using tanks sequentially helps out the OP to know the exact remaining level of propane they have available for camping before having to break camp or drive just the tow vehicle someplace to refill??

I used to run a pair of 30 pounders on our previous Spree, now have dual 20 pounders on our current Coachmen, yet haven't ever come remotely close to ever being without propane. Used sequentially, I always have a full second tank on hand while the first is in use so why would I care how much propane "exactly" may be in the in-service tank? :h

Answer - I don't care. I installed that propane tank cover viewing port because I could, not because I had to. :W

A friend of mine carries a $10 bathroom scale and a small square of plywood for a flat platform to sit it on. On his TT, he's able to lift up the in service cylinder enough to slip the scale and plywood underneath it and read the weight. Subtracting the tare weight tells him exactly how much LP is left. I've also seen someone use a hanging fish type scale to weigh a cylinder.

SoundGuy wrote:
I used to run a pair of 30 pounders on our previous Spree, now have dual 20 pounders on our current Coachmen, yet haven't ever come remotely close to ever being without propane. Used sequentially, I always have a full second tank on hand while the first is in use so why would I care how much propane "exactly" may be in the in-service tank?

It seems like you would care "exactly" about the level in your final/last in-service tank.

I watch the level in our single 60 lb. (18 gallon) tank carefully, as we camp out West a lot and are not always only a hop-skip-and-a jump away from propane ... if I even know where propane sources are at any particular time.

We also like to think of our RV as a smaller but portable extension of our brick and mortar house ... so we keep our RV coach's interior temperature no less than 60 degrees at night - the same as our house.

Those two requirements mean that I need to know what's going on with our propane level at all times - otherwise we'd have to run the generator almost 24/7 to keep the refrigerator cold and the RV warm until we could find propane somewhere.

The OP may be similar in their camping situations and desires.