I posted the question a couple of days ago about what jack is best in lifting a 5er. Now, a bigger question is, where do you put the jack and the lift point. I've read several debates on this on the internet in general. Some say lift by the frame only, some say you could twist or bend the frame and never do that. You should lift using the spring u-bolts. On my 5er, there's not much room, you would have to lift way in front of the tire or way in back of the flat tire if you used the frame. Lift on the axle? Spring hangers or u bolts? Where would you lift? I think my book states to lift by the frame, but to do that I would have to put the jack way in front or back of the flat tire which means you would have to jack higher to get the tire off the ground which means a greater chance of twisting the frame.

Jacking should always be under the spring hanger. In other words directly under the spring. If for some reason your working on the axles, then by all means you need to jack the frame to get the axles hanging free.

I have 6-point levelers and will extend out one side, lift the tires, place the jackstands under the axle at the spring plate, and repeat for the other side.

I have had to change a couple tires by the side of the road, compliments of Carlisle China ST tires. :) I put my 10 ton bottle jack under the axle U-bolts, but not on the axle tubing itself. Trying to jack the frame high enough to allow a person to remove the tire would require extensive frame support and a very high lift jack. And I wouldn't do it anyway for fear of putting excessive stress on a single point of the frame. And yes, my manual says to never use a jack on the axle. IMO another CYA statement insisted upon by the lawyers.

If you are not needing to take off all the wheels on one side, don't forget the advantages of leveling blocks/ wood blocks under the tire you do not plan to remove. Greatly minimizes the amount of jacking required.

Bottle jack. Under bottom spring leaf. Only lifts the wheel without lifting the spring flex distance. Safer under flat spring leaf than U bolt or axle between U bolts.

where do you put your jack | Good Sam Community

rhagfo
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2017
fj12ryder wrote:
I have had to change a couple tires by the side of the road, compliments of Carlisle China ST tires. :) I put my 10 ton bottle jack under the axle U-bolts, but not on the axle tubing itself.

Trying to jack the frame high enough to allow a person to remove the tire would require extensive frame support and a very high lift jack. And I wouldn't do it anyway for fear of putting excessive stress on a single point of the frame.

And yes, my manual says to never use a jack on the axle. IMO another CYA statement insisted upon by the lawyers.

Do you really think the axles are made out of tubing so thin that jacking on the tube will collapse it??? :h

If they were the first bump in the road would bend the axle and the tire would be at a 20 degree angle.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
rhagfo wrote:

Do you really think the axles are made out of tubing so thin that jacking on the tube will collapse it??? :h

If they were the first bump in the road would bend the axle and the tire would be at a 20 degree angle.

Some axle tubes are extremely thin. If you have ever changed an axle, you might have seen that the u-bolts have formed an indent. I use the flattened type of u-bolts to help prevent the indent.
goducks10
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
I use a bottle jack under the spring U-bolt area. You only need to lift the tire about 1" to 1-1/2". When using those Tire Aid things you are leaving all the weight of one side on one axle. With a bottle jack under one axle you still have the other axle helping carry the weight. May or may not make difference, but that just the way I roll.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2017
rhagfo wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
I have had to change a couple tires by the side of the road, compliments of Carlisle China ST tires. :) I put my 10 ton bottle jack under the axle U-bolts, but not on the axle tubing itself.

Trying to jack the frame high enough to allow a person to remove the tire would require extensive frame support and a very high lift jack. And I wouldn't do it anyway for fear of putting excessive stress on a single point of the frame.

And yes, my manual says to never use a jack on the axle. IMO another CYA statement insisted upon by the lawyers.

Do you really think the axles are made out of tubing so thin that jacking on the tube will collapse it??? :h

If they were the first bump in the road would bend the axle and the tire would be at a 20 degree angle.
I think the axle tubes are only as thick as they need to be to carry the trailer without being damaged. Now whether that is thick enough to put a jack under and lift is something I don't know, and I don't intend to run the risk of finding out it's not. You do what you want and I'll do as I please, and we'll both be happy.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2017
mosseater wrote:
I went to the salvage yard and bought a mechanical "bottle" jack from and F-250 (no hydraulic fluid leaks) then made a lifting shoe that fits right under the u-bolts. It locates safely and stays put under load. Light weight, inexpensive and dependable.

Have you deflated a tire to see if it will fit? You can't control the surface you are placing the jack on. The trailer aid will work in almost any conditions because of the extra surface area.
westend
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
Place the jack under the spring perch, the flat portion between the U bolts holding the springs ono the axle. This is the point where all wheel transferred torque and load transfers to springs and axle, the strongest spot on the axle.

I have Torkflex axles so I jack from the mounting plate area under the frame. I've had all four wheels off for months without any damage.
WillyB
Explorer
Feb 16, 2017
I've used a chunk of 4X4 hardwood a couple of feet long under the frame to spread the jack pressure out when the jack can't get under the u-bolts.
DE88ROX
Explorer
Feb 16, 2017
PawPaw_n_Gram wrote:
If you are not needing to take off all the wheels on one side, don't forget the advantages of leveling blocks/ wood blocks under the tire you do not plan to remove. Greatly minimizes the amount of jacking required.

Exactly!! I always toss a few 2x8s that I gave nailed together and tapered on one end. I either back up or pull forward using the good tire. Its safe and I dont have to worry about bending anything.
tinner12002
Explorer
Feb 16, 2017
My springs are over the axle, I had a adapter made that fits on the top of my bottle jack and it has a pc of radius pipe welded to it so it spreads out some away from jack post and radius helps keep it on the axle tube. I use it near u-bolts on the axle. They say not to lift on the axle but where do people think the weight of the trailer is...on the axle tube. Your not really lifting the weight of trailer completely as you still have other axle/tire on the ground. Most all of the axle tubes used are at least 1/4" wall and that's pretty darn hard to bend with just the weight of a trailer. I keep my jack just inside the door under the kitchen sink...lol
tinner12002
Explorer
Feb 16, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
rhagfo wrote:

Do you really think the axles are made out of tubing so thin that jacking on the tube will collapse it??? :h

If they were the first bump in the road would bend the axle and the tire would be at a 20 degree angle.

Some axle tubes are extremely thin. If you have ever changed an axle, you might have seen that the u-bolts have formed an indent. I use the flattened type of u-bolts to help prevent the indent.

They are 1/4" thick and on a radius so nearly impossible to bend in a short distance as when locating the jack next to u-bolts. Go to a scrap yard and ask to see a piece of 3" schedule 40 pipe, same as tubes on 3500# and up axles until you get to maybe 8or9K axles then they get thicker wall.

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