%&$# RV Refrigerator
Well the so-called testing is done on fridge...I could of sat down and cried! I am sooo disappointed and just couldn't bring myself to post late yesterday. The changing of the regulator helped, our te...
Forum Discussion
Flame going out...YOU would know cause it would still be out and 'failed' when you got somewhere.
If it went out and relight it would be within seconds of going out.....not long enough to affect temps.
Baffle at top of fridge.......with a upper side vent the baffle should have been there from original install AND space behind baffle/above fridge should be completely blocked off otherwise you have a 'dead air' space which will affect draft (negatively)
Fan........
Are you sure it is running?
Is it controlled via thermostat or manual ON/OFF?
T-stat would be on far right fin of condenser (top of fridge...access via upper cover)
It should close when fin temp reaches 130*F and open when fin temp drops to 115*F.
12V DC should come from terminal block on backside of fridge to t-stat to fan with a 1A in-line fuse.
If it went out and relight it would be within seconds of going out.....not long enough to affect temps.
Baffle at top of fridge.......with a upper side vent the baffle should have been there from original install AND space behind baffle/above fridge should be completely blocked off otherwise you have a 'dead air' space which will affect draft (negatively)
Fan........
Are you sure it is running?
Is it controlled via thermostat or manual ON/OFF?
T-stat would be on far right fin of condenser (top of fridge...access via upper cover)
It should close when fin temp reaches 130*F and open when fin temp drops to 115*F.
12V DC should come from terminal block on backside of fridge to t-stat to fan with a 1A in-line fuse.
